by the editors

A guide to a winter paradise. 

Skiing might be the classic winter activity around here, but there are plenty of other things to do when the temperature plunges. Whether your legs are sore from hitting the slopes, or you’re just looking to try something new, here are a couple of our second-string favorites.

Sledding
Who said tearing down a hill on a sled is just for kids? Some folks say it only gets better with age. The bottom line is that it’s fun for anyone with a pulse. As affordable as it is accessible, sledding is a Montana pastime, and Bozeman has a number of popular spots worth checking out: Snowfill Recreation Area, Peets Hill, the Regional Park, and Langohr Campground up Hyalite are just a few. Really, any public land with a rising slope will do—just make sure the hill has a decent run-out.

Snowshoeing
If you can walk, chances are you can snowshoe—and have fun doing it. To get started, pick a trailhead. While packed snow offers easy walking, your best bet is to veer off-trail and make your own path. One of the major joys of snowshoeing is finding solitude and serenity in the winter woods. A beginner setup (shoes & poles) runs about $200 brand-new; if you’re on a budget, pick up a pair of hand-me-downs and use your ski poles.

Snowmobiling
With the power of a snowmobile, there’s a lot you can see. Whether flying around the mountains of West Yellowstone, Big Sky, Cooke City, or Island Park, a high-speed adrenaline rush is hard to beat. There are many guide and rental services scattered throughout southwest Montana, and most places that rent snowmobiles supply snowsuits, helmets, and other accessories.

Skating
Every winter, three outdoor ice rinks pop up at Bozeman parks: Bogert, Southside, and Beall. Once the ice sets up for the season—normally in late December—the rinks stay open until 10pm every day. Southside and Bogert have warming huts for cozy cups of hot chocolate and a comfortable abode to put on and take off skates. Additional skating is offered at the Haynes Pavilion, home of the local hockey league; they rent skates for $5, plus a $5 entry fee.

Ice Fishing
Don’t knock it ’til you try it—ice fishing is a classic winter activity out West. Bring an ice auger, a fishing rod, warm clothes, and a sixer to stay true to the deep-seated roots of this activity. Hyalite Reservoir is a good option for trout, but the Bozeman Pond next to the mall is a little closer to home and has a plethora of bass and panfish. Just remember to check the ice thickness before venturing out too far. It takes four inches to support the weight of an adult human.

Events
The great thing about Bozeman is that no matter your taste, there’s always something going on. Here are a few noteworthy events for you non-skiers out there.

Ongoing
Learn to Skate – Bozeman. Get tips from the pros on how to slide smoothly on ice. Classes offered for ages four and up, from beginner to advanced. gallatinice.org

October
Hocktober Scramble – Bozeman. This fun hockey series gives players of all levels a chance to test their skills—and have a blast doing it—in competitive pickup games. bozemanhockey.org

January
SNöFLINGA – Butte. There’s something for everyone here. We’re talking snowshoe tours, fatbike races, avalanche-awareness classes… the list goes on. snoflinga.org

January
Wild West Winterfest – Island Park. Join cheery folk for a winter celebration complete with a parade of snowmobiles, sleigh rides, and a kids’ carnival. islandparkchamber.org

February
Skijoring – Big Sky. If you don’t already know what skijoring is, you’re in for a treat. Head to Big Sky for an old-time wild-west showdown. bigskyskijoring.com

Editor’s note: dates are subject to change. For the most updated information, visit outsidebozeman.com/events.

by Adam Brown

Downhill skiing around Bozeman.

Winter in Bozeman is magical. Town turns into a winter wonderland adorned with lights and sparkling snow in every direction. And the most celebrated way to enjoy the season is on skis or a snowboard. Whether you’re looking to descend wild steeps, or just keep to the greens, there’s something here for you.

Where to Go
This corner of the Rockies is sprinkled with ski areas big and small, giving you a variety of options. To start, Bridger Bowl is Bozeman’s home mountain. It’s where most of us point our cars when the snow starts to fly. There’s plenty of mountain to go around, from the iconic Ridge to bunny hills and progression areas. It’s truly a fun spot for folks of all ability levels.

If you’ve got a lush bank account, splurge on skiing at Big Sky Resort. The terrain is epic, but ticket prices are cost-prohibitive for most folks.

But beyond Bridger and Big Sky, there are plenty more places to ski. These small-town ski areas offer a charming feel, low costs, and all-around good vibes.

Mountain                     Distance from Bozeman (miles)  Nearest Town
Showdown                                 110                                                  White Sulfur Springs, MT

Great Divide                              120                                                 Helena, MT

Discovery                                     130                                                Philipsburg, MT

Red Lodge                                    150                                                Red Lodge, MT

Maverick                                       160                                                Dillon, MT

Lost Trail                                        190                                                Sula, MT

Grand Targhee                           190                                                Driggs, ID.

Backcountry
Once you’ve got your chairlift fix, it’s time to set off on some human-powered outings. There are backcountry ski options in every direction.

Hyalite Canyon is a gold mine of opportunity. Lick Creek and History Rock are great options to get your footing in the area. Once you have those in the bag, you’ll find plenty more to discover up there.

The Mount Ellis area is another popular close-by touring area. The gentle slopes of Little Ellis can be accessed via a short skin from a trailhead not 20 minutes from downtown Bozeman, while the Ellis Burn offers a longer descent that catches plenty of east-blowing snow.

For route descriptions and other inspiration, visit outsidebozeman.com/ski-tours.

Gearing Up
On paper, skiing and snowboarding gear is pretty simple. But when the metal meets the snow, things can get more complicated. It’s easy to get lost in the fine details like sidecut radius, effective edge, chamber height, blah-blah-blah. If you’re new to everything, no need to drive yourself crazy with all that. Just worry about length and waist width.

Aim for skis that are about the same height as you are. If you’re a beginner, go a bit shorter; advanced, go a bit longer. 100mm is a good, versatile waist width around these parts. Narrower is better for groomers; wider is better for powder.

Snowboards should be somewhere between your chin and nose in height, and your boot’s toes and heels should barely hang over the edge when centered on the board. If they hang too far, look for a “wide” model board.

Boots are the most crucial part for a positive experience on snow, but are oftentimes overlooked. Get something that fits snuggly, comfortably, and strikes the right balance between supportiveness and flexibility.

When it’s time to hit the backcountry, you’ll need a ski-touring setup. You’ll want boots with a walk mode, and lightweight AT bindings to make the uphill more enjoyable—after all, that’s where you’ll spend about 95% of your time. Snowboarders will need a splitboard with special bindings, but can typically use regular boots for this endeavor. Don’t forget poles for the way up, too. Finally, grab some skins and you’re just about there.

Avalanche safety gear is the last (but certainly not least) component. For baseline knowledge on snow safety, Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain is the backcountry enthusiast’s bible. But if you’re going to be out in the backcountry often, take an avalanche-safety course. There are many organizations that offer field classes in the area, and our local avalanche center schedules free seminars throughout the season. Visit mtavalanche.com for a rundown. Lastly, pick up a beacon, probe, and shovel to round out your backcountry kit.

Etiquette
When out on the slopes, there are many official rules, and just as many unofficial ones. After all, everyone’s a critic. But at the end of the day, we’re all just trying to have fun at our own pace. We sometimes get ahead of ourselves or forget what we should be doing. Just try to be patient with people and help them out when you can. However, there are some important guidelines to ensure the safety of yourself and others on the mountain (a.k.a., the Responsibility Code). In fact, these duties are actually written into our state law, so it’s best everyone knows them well. Look ’em up online or review the posters at local ski areas.

When venturing out of the ski areas and into the backcountry, there is a different set of rules to follow, some more dire than others. To start, consider that most people head into the woods for solitude, so try to keep your volume to a minimum. Everyone has a right to experience the quietude of nature. Therefore, group size can be an issue—and is a matter of both impact and safety, because managing larger groups is difficult. Two to four people is a common sweet spot. Plus, it’ll put less strain on already limited parking areas. Furthermore, if another group has beaten you to a particular ski line, let them have it. It can be dangerous to pack too many people in a small area. Finally, skintracks are sacred, so don’t trash them with boot prints and postholes. Make sure to keep your pup’s waste off the track, too. And if you don’t like the pre-existing skintrack—or you’ve got a pack of dogs pockmarking a popular one—set your own, off to the side.

Events
Bozeman loves skiing. Here are some popular events to prove it.

November
Ski Swap – Bozeman. Out with the old, in with the new(ish). Don’t miss this one. Bridger Ski Foundation’s annual swap at the Gallatin County Fairgrounds offers huge discounts on quality gear. Drop your old gear off the day before. bridgerskifoundation.org

November
Opening Day – Big Sky. 36 lifts, 4,350 feet of elevation, and 5,800 acres to play on. Have at it—if you can afford to. bigskyresort.com

December
Projected Opening Day – Bridger Bowl. Weather permitting, chairs will start spinning for another season of winter fun at Bridger Bowl. Whether you’re first in line or last to leave, opening day is always a party. bridgerbowl.com

January
Community GS Racing – Bridger Bowl. See how you stack up against the rest of the local crowd in this series of two-run GS races. Categories for ski, snowboard, and telemark. bridgerbowl.com

February
King & Queen of the Ridge – Bridger Bowl. Think you have what it takes to hike the Ridge more times than anyone else? Give it your best shot at this annual fundraiser for the Avalanche Center. bridgerbowl.com

Editor’s note: dates are subject to change. For the most updated information, visit outsidebozeman.com/events.

By: Jack Taylor

A rundown on snow-safety resources.

“If you want to learn about something, going to school is just one way to do it.” —Doug Chabot, director of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center (GNFAC)

Avalanches: the big, bad monster hiding under the bed for backcountry skiers. Every year we hear about avalanche incidents and fatalities in our local area. The cold, hard truth is that death is an inherent risk when backcountry skiing.

Another truth is that avalanche education is widely available. In fact, avalanche-education events happen nearly every day throughout winter in the Bozeman area—many of them for free. Our local avalanche center puts out forecasts every day—also free. And there’s a limitless amount of information accessible on the internet—again, free.

It’s a common misconception that avalanche education is prohibitively expensive. Yes, a formal, accredited course is the gold standard. But if you can’t afford it, plenty of other options exist.

There’s no “one thing” you can do to be safe from avalanches—except for avoiding avalanche terrain altogether. Avalanche safety is an amalgamation of skills such as terrain recognition, snowpack assessment, weather observations, decision-making, leadership, and rescue. So this winter, whether you’re a first-time skier or seasoned vet, take some time to develop, enhance, or just brush up on your avy skills.

Print Resources
These publications are timeless resources, but bear in mind that experts are still learning more about avalanches every year—so pay attention to the publication date.

• Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain
• Avalanche Essentials
• Avalanche Pocket Guide
• Snow Sense
• Allen & Mike’s Avalanche Book
• The Snowy Torrents
• The Avalanche Handbook

Online Resources
The internet has made avalanche education more accessible (and more up to date) than ever. There are tons of resources to peruse: social media accounts, YouTube channels, incident archives, and so on. Here are some places to begin your search.

• mtavalanche.com
• avalanche.org/avalanche-education
• avtraining.org/resources
• kbyg.org
• avalanche.state.co.us/accidents/us
• outsidebozeman.com/events

Training
From seminars, to organized practice sessions, to field clinics, there are free and low-cost avalanche-training events happening all the time in and around Bozeman. Check with any of the above resources, or your favorite local gear shop, for more info.

Courses
If you want to take a formal, accredited avalanche course, more power to you. These courses can be expensive, but the benefit is long-duration, hands-on instruction by professional instructors. Local course providers include:

• Beartooth Powder Guides
• Big Sky Backcountry Guides
• Montana Alpine Guides
• Montana Backcountry Yurts
• Montana Mountaineering Association
• MSU Outdoor Rec
• Six Points Avalanche Education

Dos and Don’ts
A comprehensive list of avalanche-safety rules would take up this entire magazine. Here’s a cursory overview.

DO: Ask questions. Avalanche safety is all about gathering information. What safety gear do I need? How do I use it? Where can I ski that’s safe? How do I test the snowpack?
DON’T: Take every answer at face value. Instead, be investigative. Use reputable sources. Email [email protected] with any questions you have.

DO: Practice. Get to know your safety gear. Get to know the snowpack. Get to know your partners.
DON’T: Get complacent. Many accidents happen when the guard is down. Stay on your toes out there.

DO: Read, or listen to, the avalanche forecast. It’s published every morning in text and audio format. Many folks make a habit of listening to it in the car with their ski partners on the way to the trailhead.
DON’T: Hesitate to change plans. Higher wind gusts than expected last night? Dial it back. Warmer temps than expected today? Make a turnaround time. There’s always another day to ski.

Human Factors
Group dynamics and decision-making are critical components of backcountry skiing. Tomes have been written about human factors in avalanche safety. Start by looking up the F.A.C.E.T.S. acronym, which outlines common traps we fall into:

Familiarity – Feeling more comfortable in a place we’ve already been
Acceptance – Wanting to prove our worth to others
Consistency – Tending to stick with decisions we’ve already made
Expert Halo – Assuming that more experienced opinions are more important
Tracks – Rushing to ski a slope before it gets tracked out
Social Facilitation – Altering our risk tolerance when other people are watching

Knowledge vs. Experience
Reading avalanche reports, watching instructional videos, and taking courses will help you learn about avalanches. But at a certain point, you need to get out in the snow to get experience. This does NOT mean diving head-first into avalanche terrain. To the contrary, you can learn a lot about avalanches from well within the safe zone.

So go outside and bury a beacon. Dig a hole and look for weak layers. Look for signs of wind-loading or propagation. Compare a slope-angle map to your inclinometer. Ski powder, get face shots, and high-five your friends. If you’ve read this far, you’re already on your way to becoming a savvy backcountry skier.

By Jack Taylor

A little prep goes a long way.

Winter in Montana is magical. Our landscape takes on a beautiful frozen stillness that beckons us to venture out among frosty firs, blanketed meadows, and frozen waterfalls. Even as temperatures plunge below zero, we catch glimpses of wildlife adapted to survive in the snowglobe. But as humans, we’re not so adept at enduring the cold. We depend on warm clothing, heating, and shelter to make it through. The margin for error in the outdoors is thinner during winter, and a mishap can quickly turn dangerous if you’re not prepared.

Before you take on the snowy roads, make sure your vehicle is capable. Snow tires are highly recommended and will make your life easier—and safer—all winter long. Yes, it’s a big investment, but with two sets of tires for summer and winter, each will last twice as long. If you must go without, a set of chains in your car will get you out of a pickle. Make sure they fit your tires, and practice installing them so that you can do it quickly when the time comes. If you have a front- or four-wheel drive car, put them on the front tires; if rear-wheel, put them on the back. A few more items to keep in your car include a shovel for digging yourself out, jumper cables in case your battery dies, and gloves plus warm jackets (or even a sleeping bag) in case you get stuck for a long time.

Extra warm layers are also essential when venturing away from your vehicle. A good rule of thumb is to bring one layer more than you think you’ll need—better safe than sorry. When planning your layering scheme, start with a moisture-wicking baselayer made of synthetic fibers or wool. Never wear cotton for warmth in winter; if it gets wet, it won’t dry out until you’re back in a warm environment. Fleece makes a great midlayer for top and bottom, and the same rule applies for materials. A waterproof shell usually isn’t necessary given the dryness of our winters, but a windbreaker will add protection without taking up much space in your pack. On top of that, an insulated jacket with synthetic or down fill gives you lots of warmth with little extra weight to carry. Down has a better warmth-to-weight ratio, but like cotton, it will not dry in the cold, so synthetic is always a safer bet.

by Corey Hockett

Some of the greatest moments of winter outings come as anticipation before and ravishment after. Indeed, fueling up and winding down is a big part of what makes these excursions so attractive. What beats raising a glass with your buddies at the end of an epic powder day? How good does that first sip of coffee taste before a weekend road trip? These periods of transition provide your getaway with wholesomeness. And in Bozeman, where there is no lack of adventures to choose from, après (and avant) is no different.

Fueling Up
In winter, it’s hard to leave the coziness of the comforter and strike out into the cold. Get started with hot drinks and warm sandwiches from one of our standout coffee shops and delis. If you’re headed up Bridger Canyon to the ski hill, Crosscut, or Brackett Creek, hit Ghost Town for smooth-sipping coffee and a hefty breakfast burrito. If you’re eastbound on the interstate toward Paradise Valley, pick up a warm cup o’ tea at Townshend’s. Going west, you say? Fill up at Wheat Montana at the junction of Hwy. 287 and score a serious bang for your buck with a Belt burritos. The classic rendezvous locale south of town is Slider’s Deli at the mouth of Big Sky. Grab a coffee on your way through, or, if you’re ending the day early, stop in for a sandwich or burger before your trip home. Last but certainly not least: if you’re planning a half-day at Bridger, pick up a giant Pickle Barrel sandwich and chow down on your way to the hill.

Winding Down
Ski hills are the quintessential locales for après. If you’re wrapping up a day at Bridger Bowl, you’ve got options. It’s always worth having one (just one, if you’re driving) on the hill, and for this I recommend the Grizzly Ridge Station (aka, the Griz). We’re talkin’ $3 pints here. Of Olympia, that is; but let’s face it, you’re looking for something light anyway. Face Shots in the Jim Bridger Lodge is also tried and true. Got a designated driver with you? Have one at each.

If Big Sky is your choice of exploit, you have plenty of choices as well—just be prepared to loosen the purse strings. Scissor Bills is a local favorite. Amongst the mass of infrastructure, this homey saloon overlooks the base area and has plenty of room to spread out. Have a round by the window where an upper-level perspective grants great views of the base area.

Beers are fine and dandy, but if you’re itching for something with a little more zip—something that burns the throat and warms the belly—Bozeman has an exceptional spread of distilleries. Check out Wildrye in the Cannery District and Bozeman Spirits downtown. On the way back from Bridger, stop into Valhalla Meadery for a unique, historic libation to warm your frozen insides. If you happen to be passing through Ennis, don’t miss Willie’s on the main drag—their Bighorn Bourbon rivals any whiskey in the West.

Speaking of small-town spots, some of the most pleasant après experiences are away from the Bozeman bustle—wood-door saloons, old-time taxidermy bars, and venues with no dress code whatsoever. On your next trip to Yellowstone, stop in at the Antler Pub & Grill for a western Montana meal at its finest. Heading north? Hit Canyon Ferry Brewing in Townsend after ice fishing the reservoir. In Ennis, you’ll find great beer and delicious food at Burnt Tree Brewing, across the street from Willie’s.

These are just a few of our favorite places—there are plenty more. But don’t take our word for it, get out and try for yourself. The more places you try, the better notion you’ll have of all the options to suit your winter’s day. Bozeman is a mountain town, and its après reflects that. Experience it wearing your ski pants, laughing with friends, and repping a goggle tan—the rest of us will be out there doing the same.

by Jack Taylor

You’ve made it to Bozeman, and you’re ready to explore southwest Montana’s endless expanses. But where to go first? Start by doing some research–it pays to have a plan for every excursion. Thankfully, you have a wealth of resources at your disposal to find the best trail, mountain, or stream for your next outing. Here are some of our top picks for getting the lay of the land.

Printed Guides
Nothing beats a quality, dedicated guidebook. Build a bookshelf collection for your favorite outdoor activities, and make sure these are included:

• The Last Best Trails: Montana (SINTR, $30)
• Day Hikes around Bozeman: (Day Hikes Books, $16)
• Southern Montana Singletrack: (Beartooth Publishing, $30)
• Bozeman Rock Climbs: (High Gravity Press, $25)
• Paddling Montana: (Falcon Guides, $25)
• Cast: Fishing Southwest Montana: (Outside Media Group, free)
• Stalk: Hunting Southwest Montana: (Outside Media Group, free)
• The House of Hyalite: (Joe Josephson, $36)
• Peaks and Couloirs of Southwest Montana: (Chris Kussmaul, $45)

Printed Maps
Even in the age of digital everything, a good ol’ printed map is an invaluable resource. For close-to-home outings, start with the Gallatin Valley Land Trust’s map, which covers all the trails in and around Bozeman proper. it’s available from retailers around town for $3. (For a free digital version, go to gvlt.org/trails/trail-maps.) For Bozeman’s premier backyard playground, Hyalite Canyon, the nonprofit Friends of Hyalite makes a great fold-out recreation map in two versions: winter and summer. Pick one up around town for $5, or view it digitally any hyalite.org/recreation-maps. Beartooth Publishing is our go-to for detailed topographic maps of southwest Montana, complete with roads, trails, and usage restrictions; order print copies from beartoothpublishing.com or find them in local stories. Our favorite all-around option is Bozeman Area Outdoor Recreation Map, which sells for $16. For general trip-planning throughout the state, pick up a copy of the DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer. For more detail, order zoomed-in, area -specific, waterproof maps from MyTopo, a custom-mapping outfit in Billings. A large-format wall map of southwest Montana from Basin and Range Mapping will help you see the big picture and make planning that much easier.

Apps
For hunter and anglers, there are three go-to apps you’ll want on your smartphone or GPS: Montana Fishing Access, Montana Hunting Access, and onWater. The first two are activity-specific and produced right here in Bozeman by Mountainworks Software; the latter is a leading map for fishing access, flows, and reports all in one place.

Websites
You’ll find plenty of information online to learn about local outdoor opportunities. For a collection of general resources, head to outsidebozeman.com and poke around–all day, if you’re not careful. Looking for specific trail descriptions? Check out outsidebozeman.com/trails, gvlt.org/trails/featured-trails, or trailforks.com. For updates and news in the world of mountain biking, including suggested rides, take a look at southwestmontanamba.org. Climbers, head to swmontanaclimbers.org for access information and stewardship projects. If you’re heading for the rivers, check out waterdata.usgs.gov for water levels, bigskyfishing.com for angling info, and fwp.mt.gov for fishing regulations. In the winter, if you plan on heading into the backcountry, stay updated with avalanche forecasts from mtavalanche.com. For general tips & tricks regarding outdoor safety and skills, check out outsidebozeman.com/skills.

Stores
Nothing beats a well-stocked retailer for hands-on gear comparison, along with free advice from local professionals. Southwest Montana teams with outdoor shops; stop in and hit ‘em up for tips and guidance. Just be sure to buy something while you’re there; Montanans are a friendly, helpful lot, but nobody likes a freeloader.

By Jamie Rankin

Bozeman brims with not only outdoor-recreation opportunities, but also close-knit communities dedicated to getting outside. If you’re looking to get involved in the outdoors and meet new people along the way, here are some local groups and clubs to scope out.

Running
Big Sky Wind Drinkers: started in the 1970s; they hold races year-round, as well as weekly fun runs in the summer and winter. winddrinker.org

Hunting & Fishing
Backcountry Hunters & Anglers: is dedicated to protecting fish & wildlife habitat, public land, and public access. backcountryhunter.org

MSU Fly Fishing Club: brings folks together to fish, tie flies, and get involved with local conservation events. @bozotroutbums on Instagram

Biking
Gallatin Valley Bicycle Club: holds training events, races, and group rides; and keeps members apprised of other local biking events. gallatinvalleybicycleclub.org

Southwest Montana Bike Association: is a nonprofit dedicated to maintaining trails and organizing group rides for those of all ability levels. southwestmontanamba.org

Paddling
Wave Train Kayak Team: teaches adult paddling courses of various skill levels. wavetrainkayakteam.com

Bozeman Whitewater: is a group that organizes day trips on local rivers. @Bozemanwhitewater on Facebook

Skiing
Bridger Ski Foundation: offers educational and competitive ski programs for all ages. bridgerskifoundation.com

XC Skiers of Bozeman: os a group dedicated to coordinating Nordic ski days. @XCSkiers of Bozeman on Facebook

Climbing
SW Montana Climbers Coalition: is a nonprofit that advocates for climbing access and works to maintain routes. swmontanaclimbers.org

Woman’s-Specific
Lady Runners Bozeman: connects runners of all skill levels in the Bozone. @Lady Runners: Bozeman on Facebook

Bozeman Pedal Project: is a biking Facebook group that coordinates group rides. @Bozeman Pedal Project of Facebook

Mountain Belles: and the MSU chapter of Backcountry Squatters organize trips of all type & activity year-round. Find the both on Facebook. @MountainBelles & @BackcountrySquatters