Category Archives: Activities

All in a Summer

by Eli Fournier

Come summertime, there are the classic warm-weather pastimes like hiking, biking, climbing, and fishing, but numerous other activities can also fill a weekend. Listed here are a handful that make for fun excursions and take you to off-the-beaten-path locales.

Hunting
Montana is quite possibly the most hunter-friendly state in the country—both in terms of opportunity and the amount of game running around the hills. While elk and deer have a huge appeal, for newbies a good place to start is small game like grouse, squirrels, and rabbits. Learn to find, hunt, gut, skin, and cook them—gain competency with these smaller species before thinking about pursuing larger game. Rabbits and squirrels can be hunted year-round, so poke around some public land—ideally off-trail, to avoid spooking hikers—with a .22 rifle or 20-gauge shotgun. On September 1st, mountain-grouse season opens, and targeting these tasty birds really just involves hiking around the woods with a shotgun. Either a 12- or 20-gauge will get the job done. Look for ruffed grouse in thick brushy areas with abundant berries, and blue grouse on ridgetops. Either way, stay on high alert—these birds are often quick to fly when spooked.

Foraging
Part of living in Montana is learning basic woodsman skills—like starting a fire and identifying edible plants. If the latter is new to you, berry-picking is a great place to start. Huckleberries, wild strawberries, and raspberries are all easy to identify and can be picked in large quantities in the right places, at the right times. That means you could be reaping the rewards of your labors for months to come.

Another commonly-foraged food in southwest Montana is mushrooms. Morels in the spring and chanterelles in late summer provide two opportunities to fill the pantry with wild fungi. However, there are poisonous lookalikes for both species, so it’s worth going with someone who can positively identify both the safe and harmful varieties. An experienced forager can also show you the types of places to look for mushrooms—they require specific soil types, shading, and temperatures.

ChanterelleForaging-HebgenLake-EliFournier-4

Packrafting
Although a relatively niche activity, packrafting offers an adrenaline-packed avenue into relatively untouched places. Boats are expensive, but once acquired can open up a huge number of possibilities in southwest Montana. Think about hiking deep into a wilderness area and floating out in style, taking in the sights, sounds, and wildlife from the comfort of a boat. Modern packrafts are also capable whitewater boats, and with an experienced paddler at the helm, they can handle most things a larger raft or kayak could. Ask around and you can likely find someone with a packraft to test out before you go full-send on the activity. Just be sure to take care of your friend’s boat, and repay ’em with a sixer of beer.

Canoeing
While whitewater certainly steals the show in southwest Montana, stillwater shouldn’t be overlooked. Canoeing can be a tranquil way to spend a day, or if you’re into fishing, a productive means of covering water and finding fish. Some good options are Hebgen, Quake, and Ennis lakes. All three can get dangerously windy for canoes, though, especially in the afternoons. So consider putting on early. There are also a handful of canoe-friendly rivers that could make for overnight excursions, especially in late summer when the water’s too low for rafts. Look toward the Jefferson, Big Hole, Beaverhead, and Yellowstone, to name a few. Just remember that per Montana law, you must have a PFD on board for every person. Doesn’t mean you have to wear it all day, but it’s gotta be in the boat.

Regardless of how you enjoy a Montana summer, it’s hard to go wrong so long as you’re outside. Find a friend or mentor who’s into any of the above activities (shouldn’t be hard), and off you’ll ride (or paddle, or hunt) into the sunset.

Sleepin’ Around

by Jamie Rankin

There’s nothing quite like sleeping under the stars with the sounds of crickets singing in the background, or drinking your morning coffee overlooking a ridgeline or high-alpine lake. From towering peaks to riverbanks, southwest Montana overflows with areas to lay your head outdoors—for both the novice camper and seasoned backpacker. So, pack your bags (and bear spray) and venture out to unplug. There’s an endless amount to see.

Do Your Research
Waking up at your camp spot is part of the magic, but so is finding the spot to begin with. If you go to the first place you find from a Google search, props to you—but don’t be surprised if you’re not the only one with that idea. Get to know the landscape by doing research and becoming intimate with the different types of public lands.

U.S. Forest Service land, managed by the Department of Agriculture, typically offers dispersed (read: camp where you want) camping opportunities with and without amenities, allowing for a more choose-your-own-adventure type of experience. BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land, under the Department of the Interior, also offers dispersed camping—but is known for its wide-open spaces and fewer regulations, catering to those seeking solitude and more primitive camping. State Parks, managed by Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks (FWP), generally provide more developed camping facilities such as designated campsites, water spigots, and restrooms, making them more family-friendly and structured. Fishing Access Sites, also managed by FWP, offer simple camping near area rivers and lakes, and many provide restrooms and designated campsites.

Regardless of which you choose, be sure to pick a destination that matches your experience level and the desired difficulty of everyone on the trip. If you’re backpacking, is the trail physically accommodating to all on the trip? If car camping, do you need a high-clearance vehicle to access the campsite? Research the area thoroughly, understanding the trail maps and routes. Check for any necessary permits or regulations, and ensure that you are allowed to be there.

Furthermore, it’s helpful to make plans B and C for your camp spot, in the instance that your first or second choices are occupied. Montana’s weather can also vary by the hour, so it never hurts to peek at the weather forecast before heading out. Finally, always inform someone about your itinerary and expected return.

Camping in the Bitterroot National Forest

Essential Gear & Equipment
Lack of the proper gear can quickly turn your long-awaited camping trip turn into a nightmarish endeavor. Some must-have items include a quality tent and rainfly, a sleeping bag appropriate for the season, a sleeping pad for comfort and insulation, a portable stove, cooking utensils, a water filtration system, and bear spray (each individual on the trip should have a canister). Be sure to have clothing and shoes suitable for the weather and elements, and a way to keep it all dry if you get caught up in a rainstorm. A tarp, raincoat, or even spare trash bags will all do the trick.

It’s also beneficial to bring along a first-aid kit, soap or hand sanitizer, navigation tools, a headlamp, and a multi-purpose tool or knife. If you’re car camping or have weight to spare in your backpack, this list could become as extensive and glorious as you desire. Reviewing a checklist before your departure into the backcountry can ensure you don’t forget any critical items and help you pack efficiently.

At Camp
Great, you’ve arrived at camp! Now let’s make sure you leave it in the same state, if not better, than when you found it. When setting up your tent, look for a flat, sheltered area that is not too close to water—streams often rise at night from afternoon rainshowers or alpine snowmelt.

Pitch your tent on a durable surface and use a groundsheet to protect the tent floor. If you’re planning to have a group campfire, follow local regulations and practice fire safety. Properly dispose of waste (pack it in, pack it out!) and store food securely to avoid attracting wildlife. Avoid walking off the established trails at campsites to minimize your impact on the area.

Better Safe Than Sorry
A well-stocked first-aid kit complete with emergency medications is great to have on a trip, but by taking mindful precautions, you could likely avoid using it all together. As simple as it sounds, make sure to stay hydrated to combat the heat and elevation.

Having someone on the trip that knows basic first-aid procedures is ideal, and it is wise to review allergies with the group. It’s also helpful to be familiar with basic flora and fauna, as to make sure no one goes frolicking through a shrub of poison ivy or into the fangs of a rattlesnake.

Bear safety is a major precaution in southwest Montana as well. You’re in their home, after all. The camp kitchen and suspended food storage with all scented items (yep, toothpaste, lip balm, and that granola bar from the bottom of your backpack) should be at least 200 feet from your sleeping quarters.

Now that you’re all up to speed on research and safety, don’t forget to have fun and enjoy these beautiful landscapes we get to call home—from the comfort of a tent, that is.

Keep Rollin’

by Eli Fournier

Drive around town these days, and you’ll notice mountain bikes hanging off vehicles left and right. Who are these people and where are they going, you ask? Well, turns out these folks are part of a flourishing and growing mountain-bike scene here in Bozeman—one well worth partaking in. Mountain biking can be expensive to get into (as with any outdoor sport), but once you have the basic gear, the options are endless. Here’s a rundown on local singletrack.

Where to Go
For a newbie, there are miles of trails in and around town that make for easy between-class or after-work excursions. For a classic ride, hop on the Gallagator to Peets Hill. Once atop, take a connector trail east to Highland Glen, and then turn south on the Painted Hills singletrack toward the Gallatin Range. The trail rolls and flows for a couple miles, eventually tying in with Triple Tree—an easy lollipop loop best ridden counterclockwise. Be careful coming down on the stem of the loop, as there are a few blind corners and lots of uphill traffic from both hikers and other bikers. Head back the way you came, or on Sourdough Road.

Another short, popular ride near town is Leverich Canyon, a small drainage tucked into the foothills between Hyalite and Bozeman Creek. For an extra workout, ride South 3rd from town to the trailhead. If you drive, know that parking is limited, and the access road is surrounded by private land, so there’s no overflow parking if the lot’s full. It only holds about two dozen cars. The Leverich Loop is designed to be ridden clockwise, and the downhill is built out with some flowy jumps and turns.

Once you’ve got a handful of riding days under your belt, test your endurance, strength, and technical skills on the Bangtail Divide.

For something a little more challenging, but still well within the wheelhouse of an afternoon ride, look to Chestnut Mountain. To get there, hop on I-90 eastbound and take the Trail Creek exit about ten miles from town. Cross the train tracks, and park on the side of the road at the base of the mountain. Chestnut can be ridden as an out-and-back up the mountain, but the uphill is brutally steep. More popular is a loop up Trail Creek Road to the Goose Creek Trailhead, then around the backside of the mountain and down the front. It’s a challenging, 15-mile ride with several thousand feet of elevation gain and drop, but the views from up top are epic—not to mention you get a ripping downhill for the last 30 minutes of the ride. (Note: this trail is popular with hikers, runners, and dog-walkers, so be sure to slow down at blind corners and in general just be aware, mindful, and courteous.)

Once you’ve got a handful of riding days under your belt, test your endurance, strength, and technical skills on the Bangtail Divide. Park on the side of Stone Creek Road, right off Bridger Canyon. Park in a convenient and respectful spot—the landowner bordering the road filed a lawsuit against the Forest Service to cut off public access here, so try not to make things any worse than they already are. The trail begins by climbing for a couple hours on a series of switchbacks up and around Stone Creek, then flattens out as it hits the divide. The trail then turns north, running the ridge all the way to Brackett Creek. Ride the highway back for about a 25-mile loop in total, or hitchhike a ride.

Also on the east side of the Bridgers is Crosscut Mountain Sports Center, which maintains a number of mountain-bike trails in the foothills. Crosscut hosts clinics throughout the summer to hone skills like downhill riding and cornering. Practice on their mellow terrain, then take your newfound abilities to more technical mountain trails.

Once you’ve got a handle on the basics, it might be time for some downhill dirt. A number of ski areas in the region offer downhill, lift-accessed bike trails in the summer—including DiscoveryBig Sky, and Grand Targhee. The three offer very different experiences, from the commercial feel of Big Sky to the mom-and-pop vibe at Targhee, and the small-town Montana aura of Disco. What doesn’t change, however, is the risk of downhill riding. It’s dangerous—no two ways about it. Consider a full-face helmet, knee & elbow pads, and even chest pads if you’re serious about sending big lines. Check your bike thoroughly beforehand, too. Ensure your wheel hubs are tight, brakes are bled, pads are fresh, and shocks are lubed. Downhill riding can be an exhilarating, scary, skill-building experience.

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Essential Gear
Mountain biking ain’t a cheap sport. First, there’s the initial investment in a bike. If you’re just getting into it, look at hardtails, which only have front suspension. They’re great to learn and hone your skills on, but if you stick with it, you’ll almost certainly want to upgrade to a full-suspension bike at some point. These more-expensive options typically have beefier suspension in the front fork, and an additional shock built into the frame to absorb hits to the back wheel. They’re a much smoother ride, and are capable of things that you really can’t do—or at least do well—on a hardtail.

In addition to a bike, you’ll need shoes, which come in the “flat” and “clipless” varieties. Flats are normal shoes, and a lot of people just ride in Vans or street shoes with flat soles. Flats allow you to bail off the bike quickly, if need be. They’re great to learn on, and lots of expert riders swear by flats. On the other hand, clipless pedals (which is a bit of a misnomer), secure your feet to the pedals with a mechanical mechanism, and give you power on up- and down-strokes. They’re preferred by lots of endurance riders and racers, but are certainly a bit challenging to learn on. You’ll fall over a handful of times before figuring out how to quickly release your shoes from the pedals.

You’ll also need a brain bucket. Remember, helmets are one-and-done, meaning if you take a big hit, you need to throw it away and buy a new one to fully protect your noggin. Don’t cut corners here—it’s not worth the risk. Also useful, but not necessary, is a hydration pack. Hip packs are the most comfortable to ride with as they put the weight on your lower back instead of your shoulders; but backpacks are fine, too. Finally, bring along a patch kit, packable pump, and spare innertube.

Etiquette
Let’s keep this short and simple. According to the rules, downhill bike traffic yields to uphill traffic, and bikes yield to both pedestrians and horses. However, if you ask politely or give a friendly “on your left,” most hikers will clear the trail for you. It’s often easier for them to step off to the side than for a biker to drag his bike off the trail. Be friendly to other riders, and offer assistance if you come across a rider with a flat tire or mechanical problem. It’ll come back around when you inevitably need help at some point down the trail.

Hit the Trails

by Adam Brown

A guide to exploring Bozeman’s sprawling network of trails.

Next time you get a chance—a quiet moment under the big, blue Montana sky—take a second to look around. What do you see? First, you’ll probably notice the Bridger Range, cradling our town from the northeast. To the south, the Gallatin Range extends far back into the skyline. Southwest, the Spanish Peaks poke up, keeping the Madison Range out of view and ready to be uncovered. Due west and farther out, oftentimes fading into the horizon on hazier days, the Tobacco Roots loom in the distance. The Absarokas sit just out of view to the east, with no shortage of stones to turn.

There are more ranges to see, of course, depending on one’s particular perch. But the point is, there are foothills, peaks, canyons, and valleys in every direction. Nearly every summit can be climbed; every drainage holds a secret. Even the foothills and woods near town abound with opportunity—the amount of adventures and experiences you can have is limited only by your desire to peek around that next bend. The best part? Trails wind their way through it all, beckoning you to come forth and explore. If you need some advice to get started, here are a few classic outings.

Around Town
Gallagator: Named after an old railway line, this trail acts like an arterial pipeline through Bozeman. It’s a popular commuter path from the north to the south end of town. On it, you’ll stroll by gardens, climbing boulders, and plenty of jumping-off points onto other local trails.

East Gallatin Recreation Area: North of town, you’ll find this local hotspot. Despite its close proximity and popularity, there is plenty to do here. Get in on the action at East Gallatin Pond (“Bozeman Beach” to the locals) or duck back into a trail system hidden among the river and trees. It, too, ties into other trails, including the path to the M.

Highland Glen Nature Preserve: This small network is another great close-to-town option. Here you’ll enjoy rolling hills, forested gulches, great views of the surrounding mountains above the lush vegetation, and the occasional company of grazing cattle.

Headin’ Up
Triple Tree: A local favorite in the foothills of the Gallatin Range. Get there using one of the nearby parking areas, or hike in from Painted Hills if you want to add some extra mileage. Otherwise, you’ll be getting about four miles of pleasant, forested trail with a great overlook back north over the valley. Be aware of mountain bikers on this trail, typically riding the loop counterclockwise.

The M: Montanans sure do love putting letters on their mountains. While some denote the town below or name of the mountain, our M is dedicated to Montana State University and goes back all the way to 1915. There are two ways to get up to the M. The standard route switchbacks along the foothills, while the steep route cuts straight up the face of the mountain. There’s a reason this hike is so popular: the view across town and the valley beyond is fantastic.

Drinking Horse: This mountain got its name because it resembles a horse taking a drink from a creek, when gazed upon from the east. The trail is another favorite of folks looking to get out for a jaunt close by, any time of year. In fact, the trail averages about 150 daily users in the winter and a whopping 500 in the summer. You may not get much solitude here, but the views toward the Bangtails and back into Bridger Canyon are remarkable.

Top Notch
Chestnut Mountain: A great summit option without having to go very far. You’ll find the trailhead just inside the mouth of the Bozeman Pass, on the way to Livingston—take the Trail Creek exit. Climb up a nicely buffed-out trail that switchbacks through forest and meadows until you’re finally rewarded with incredible views of the Absarokas and Paradise Valley.

Sacajawea Peak: One of the best bangs for your buck in the Bridgers (with Baldy a close second). Starting at Fairy Lake, this trail is only about four miles round-trip, but you’ll surely feel the elevation as you climb 2,000 vertical feet to the summit. At the top, you’ll get 360-degree views, including all the aforementioned ranges. The resident mountain goats have it good.

Mt. Blackmore: This mountain has a prominent presence over the valley, constantly peering down on us from the top of the Gallatin Range. Just take a gander south and you’ll be able to make out its pyramid shape. Because of its physical and historical significance to the area, it’s well worth checking out up-close and personal. From the lower trailhead, four miles round-trip will get you to Blackmore Lake, and 12 will take you all the way to the summit and back.

Etiquette
Most of the above trails are shared with bikers—even some of the more challenging ones, like Blackmore. Generally, bikers should yield to hikers, and both should yield to horses. Downhill traffic should also yield to those coming uphill. However, this is only a rough guideline, and a more nuanced approach should be taken. Just be kind, courteous, and keep your head up—everything should work out fine. It’s often much easier for a hiker or runner to take a step off the trail and allow fast-moving bikes to pass than it is to insist otherwise.

Events
May
Spring Cleanup – Hyalite Canyon. After a long winter, Hyalite needs some love. Pitch in for a morning of bagging trash and tidying trailheads. hyalite.org

May-June
GVLT Discovery Walks – Bozeman. Meet new people and make new friends on these one-hour guided walks along the Main Street to the Mountains trail system. 80+ miles await, all of which are right here, in and around town. gvlt.org 

May-September
Wind Drinkers Fun Runs – Bozeman. If you’re looking to ramp up the pace a bit and get into trail running, join the Wind Drinkers for some casual summer jaunts. winddrinkers.org

June
Summer Trails Challenge – Hit the trails and earn money for GVLT’s trail work and conservation initiatives. gvlt.org

June-August
L&C Caverns Guided Hikes – Whitehall. Explore the drier climes west of Bozeman at Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park, where guides offer an immersive hike through the sagebrush hills. fwp.mt.gov

June 1
National Trails Day – Bozeman. This is the best day to give back to the trails that give us so much. Almost every trail-related nonprofit in town has a work day scheduled, so you’ll have plenty of options to choose from. gvlt.org 

September 28
National Public Lands Day – Bozeman. Around here, we use public lands all the time, which means they need a little love and care every year. Use this last Saturday of the month to go for a hike, do some trail maintenance, or find a new trail run. gvlt.org

Editor’s note: dates are subject to change based on weather and other factors. For the most updated information, visit outsidebozeman.com/events.

Lines on the Water

by Eli Fournier

Fly-fishing in Southwest Montana.

Welcome to the fly-fishing capital of Montana, if the not entire West. If you come in search of piscine pursuits, look no further. Indeed, the fishing here lives up to its reputation, and come August, the town dress code might as well be quick-dry shorts, a sun hoody, sandals, sunglasses (with Croakies), and a lucky fishing hat. But aside from looking the part, knowing a few basics is also important. Here’s a rundown on a few of the most popular local waters. For more, pick up a copy of the Cast fishing guide, available for free at most fly shops and outdoor stores around town.

Where to Go
Madison River
From the “50-mile riffle” on its upper section, to Bear Trap Canyon and the flat meanders of its lower section, the Madison has plenty of options. A driftboat or raft is the best way to access the upper, but wading is equally effective on the lower. The flows are dam-controlled, but the water can still blow out from high-flow feeder streams. Early summer is caddis; mid-summer, salmonflies; and late-summer, mayflies and terrestrials.

Gallatin River
Perhaps the most famous trout river in the West, thanks to A River Runs Through It, the Gally is worthy of the hype. The river begins as a trickle in Yellowstone National Park and ends at its confluence with the Jefferson and the Madison at Missouri Headwaters State Park. Excellent fishing is to be had throughout, although “the Canyon” is the most-heavily pressured thanks to its fish-laden pockets, cool water temps, and easy access. The river is best fished wading from the banks—in fact, it’s illegal to fish from a boat on the upper section down to the confluence with the East Gallatin River, at Manhattan. If you’re just after a few casts in the evening, the Gallatin is tough to beat.

Yellowstone River
The Yellowstone originates south of the Park in some of the most remote country in the Lower 48. When folks around town refer to fishing on the ’Stone, however, they’re typically referencing the Paradise Valley section, from Gardiner to Livingston, and even further downstream to Big Timber. The fishing is dictated by flows. Springtime pre-runoff can be good, but the real goods are had once runoff subsides in late June. The Yellowstone is primo streamer water early-season, and dry-dropper territory later in the summer. It’s a big river, and wading can be difficult—but it’s not impossible. The best way to fish the Yellowstone is from a raft, stopping at good runs to wade.

Lakes
Both alpine lakes and lowland reservoirs can be productive at the right time of year. Just after ice-off in May, trout tend to cruise the shorelines of Ennis, Quake, Hebgen, and Henry’s lakes looking for easy meals. All these stillwaters can be effectively fished from shore in early spring before the fish move out to deeper waters. Once things warm up, the high-mountain lakes really turn on. But with so many possibilities in the Gallatin, Absaroka, and Madison ranges, narrowing down the options is challenging. Fortunately, there are a couple of good guidebooks, with one of the best being Flyfisher’s Guide to Southwest Montana’s Mountain Lakes. If you’re heading anywhere in the high country, bring a rod along—there are fish in just about every lake, pond, and creek in this corner of the state.

 

Catch & Release vs. Keep & Eat
On heavily-pressured rivers—all the ones mentioned above—catch-and-release is highly encouraged. While it’s legal to keep fish on some of these rivers, if every angler kept a daily bag limit, there would be no fish left. It’s acceptable to bonk a fish for dinner every now and then, especially if it’s unlikely to survive upon release; just try not to make a habit of it. A few standard catch-and-release practices: play fish quickly, keep them in the water, limit handling to a bare minimum, and use barbless hooks.

Bonking fish in reservoirs or at high mountain lakes is less frowned upon. In fact, a lot of folks on big alpine backpacking trips don’t bring much in the way of dinner food, instead relying on trout to fill their stomachs. Bring a packet of Idahoan mashed potatoes, some salmon-rub, and tortillas for gourmet trout burritos.

Etiquette
Fishing etiquette is pretty simple: don’t be a dick on the river. Chat with other anglers, give folks space, share your knowledge with those less experienced, and if floating, don’t dilly-dally and cause a traffic jam at the boat ramp. With some basic courtesy, you shouldn’t run into any issues on the water.

Under the Stars

by Jack Taylor

A guide to camping around the Bozone.

A camping or backpacking trip is one of the easiest, and quite possibly the best, ways to immerse yourself in the outdoors. Spending a night (or multiple nights) in the woods will calm your nerves, humble your mind, and invigorate your soul. When a trip is well executed, you’ll be rewarded with a sense of achievement and satisfaction. If things go awry, you’ll build resilience, learn from your mistakes, and certainly get a good story out of it. Most trips are a mixed bag of solid accomplishment and unplanned adventure. Here are some tips to help with logistics, so that you’ll have greater capacity for exploration. After all, you’d rather come home with a boastful tale about getting lost in the dark and navigating by starlight, than a dejected account of bringing the wrong type of stove gas and eating all your meals cold-soaked.

Where to Go
Our favorite place to go camping is… wait, did you really think we were going to tell you? Part of the fun in planning a trip is figuring out where to go! There’s nothing so satisfying as the process of discovery. That said, here are some general guidelines as you’re poring over the maps.

U.S. Forest Service land is perhaps the most popular option for overnight outings around here. From established campgrounds equipped with amenities, to vast swaths of unmarred wilderness, you’ll find the full gamut of camping and backpacking opportunities. Most of our nearby mountain ranges are almost entirely designated as National Forest (read: public) land.

State Parks and Fishing Access Sites (FASs) offer state-managed campgrounds, usually adjacent to water bodies or historical sites. Using these lands requires the purchase of an $8 annual Montana Conservation License, which can easily be obtained at fwp.mt.gov. The fee goes directly toward maintaining the sites.

Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land is more sparse around Bozeman, but it offers camping opportunities near some popular recreation sites. The campsites are generally primitive, with no amenities—save perhaps a fire ring. So plan ahead, and have a means of disposing your waste.

On that note, regardless of where you go, practice leaving no trace. Look up the “Leave-No-Trace Principles,” or just follow this rule: leave it better than you found it. That means no trash, a clean firepit, and in general just an attractive campsite for the next person who comes along.

Group Size
The ideal number of people for a camping or backpacking trip will depend on your objective. But whether it’s a solo peak-bagging mission or a river trip with a crowd of two dozen, group size is an important consideration in planning.

When solo, you can make all the decisions yourself with no external conflict. You’ll be less distracted, and will probably feel more immersed in the environment. But solo outings are riskier, as you’re self-reliant. Plus, in a group, you can work as a team and socialize. Conflict is almost inevitable, but working through it is a good skill to practice.

In the backcountry, where we go to experience pristine nature, groups of more than five people can have a significant impact on other travelers. If you’re in a large party, consider splitting into smaller teams while on the trail. You can reconvene at camp, but be especially mindful of encroaching on others’ space.

Food
Meal-planning is one of the biggest challenges of a camping trip. Our best advice is to learn from experience. If you’re happy eating freeze-dried meals, great. If you’re culinarily inclined, camp-cooking can be an excellent outlet for creativity. Don’t be afraid to bring some perishable items for the start of your trip—especially if you’re camping near a car or boat with a cooler. Unrefrigerated meat should be fine for a day; veggies up to a few days. Canned food is heavy, but increases your options. Dehydrating your own food will save weight, and is less expensive than purchasing freeze-dried meals. Pre-made PB&Js are great for a quick lunch.

Cooking
There are two ways to cook while camping: on a stove or over a fire. A stove is easier and more reliable (e.g., it works in the rain), so it’s probably your safest bet. The two most popular types run on butane canisters or white gas. Butane stoves are simple and compact, but can struggle in cold temps or at high elevations. White-gas stoves are more complicated, but they’re versatile and reliable once you learn the maintenance procedures.

But there’s a primal satisfaction in cooking over fire—and an art to doing it right. If you choose this route, be sure to abide by fire restrictions. Don’t burn the forest down, and don’t leave a mess of a firepit—especially if there wasn’t one already established.

Bears
Grizzlies are a real concern when camping in southwest Montana. Hang your food, and cook at least 200 feet away from where you sleep. Bring nothing but water into your tent—even a tube of toothpaste can tip off a grizzly that there’s something tasty nearby.

 

Big Sky Boatin’

by Corey Hockett

Paddling in Southwestern Montana.

Montana’s boating scene often gets shrugged off like a younger brother. Pitted against other western states, its reputation falls short of Idaho’s coveted multi-day trips and the Northwest’s epic whitewater. This may be why river life in the Treasure State is overlooked and underrated. Regardless, it’s all good, because in Bozeman, you’re teed up for just about all you can ask for—and usually without the out-of-state crowds joining you.

Gallatin
A mere 20 minutes from town, the Gally is our closest gem. A low- to medium-volume river, typical flows range from 300-1,000cfs at the gauge at Gallatin Gateway, with peak runoff landing somewhere between 5,000 and 6,000. In June 2022, spring rains and a melting snowpack cultivated a raging torrent over 8,600cfs, the highest ever recorded since the gauge was installed in 1994.

As a shallower river, the rapids on the Gallatin vary in shape and size and are more technical in nature. Rafters are tested with regular rock-dodging, while smaller crafts can pick from a selection of routes ranging from small drops to demanding boofs for kayakers. Most of the whitewater lies between Deer Creek and Lower Storm Castle. Intermediate paddlers should stick to sections above Lava Lake. Below this access is the formidable Mad Mile. At flows above 3,000cfs, this is a continuous Class IV run. If this doesn’t sound like you, and lounging on the raft with a beer and your dog is more up your alley, check out the river between Manhattan and Missouri Headwaters State Park. Appropriate options include canoeing, rowing a driftboat, and floating on an inner tube.

Yellowstone
The longest freestone river in the Lower 48, the Yellowstone forms deep in the Absaroka Range and flows for nearly 700 miles through mountain gorges and across prairie flats until it joins the Missouri near Williston, North Dakota. Apart from its tumbling cascades inside the national-park boundary, which are off-limits to boaters, the best rapids lie between Gardiner and Carbella Campground. Here, two supreme sections of whitewater await the eager river-runner.

The first three miles downstream of Gardiner yield playful wave trains (Class II-III) all the way to McConnell Landing. The river mellows out for the next ten miles, but picks back up where a narrow gorge constricts near the Joe Brown put-in. The fabled Yankee Jim Canyon is a four-mile stretch with three notable features: Boat Eater, Big Rock, and Boxcar rapids. At low to medium levels, intermediate paddlers and rowers will find it exciting but manageable. When flows crest above 15,000cfs, think twice before going down. While the waves and holes become munchier, the strong eddy fences and unpredictable boils are just as likely to tip an inexperienced boatman.

Below Yankee Jim, the river’s character relaxes significantly. Occasional rapids pop up now and again, but for the most part the Yellowstone is a fishing-float from here out. Downstream from Livingston, one will find more intermediate waves between Springdale and Grey Bear. While the river appears slow from a distance, it’s worth noting that the current is sneakily strong and should be treated with utmost respect.

Madison
Renowned as a destination fly-fishing river, the Madison is more apt to attract anglers than it is paddling enthusiasts. That said, Bear Trap Canyon holds something for everyone. Set in the Lee Metcalf Wilderness, the river’s remoteness combined with its impressive rapid lineup make it one of the state’s most celebrated whitewater runs.

Below Ennis Lake, one can select from two put-ins. Entering directly below the dam will insert you into the action right away, with Double Drop Rapids (Class IV) right around the corner. For those who want a slower start, drive all the way to the end of the road and launch at the powerhouse. In one quick mile, Whitehorse Rapid provides an excellent warm-up with a steep gradient and a forgiving wave train. The meat of the run, however, is a distinctive S-turn that occurs exactly halfway down. The infamous Kitchen Sink is a string of drops that are demanding and technical at all water levels. Scout (or portage) on river right, and make sure to watch for rattlesnakes along the way. The second half of the canyon offers plenty of Class II rapids, as well as the unmistakable Green Wave, an exciting Class III to keep you honest.

For folks less interested in whitewater, the lower Madison provides a number of great scenic floats all the way to Headwaters State Park, with Warm Springs to Black’s Ford being the most popular tubing stretch.

Gear
Like many other outdoor activities, boating can take up a sizeable portion of the gear closet (actually, you’ll probably need a garage). If you’re new to the sport, the one thing you can count on needing, no matter when you go, where you go, how you go, is a PFD. Montana law mandates that you have one in the boat with you, and if you’re going to be running any sort of whitewater, we recommend not skimping on the quality.

No matter what type of craft you’ll be taking, drybags are handy. To keep an extra set of clothes, your phone, sunscreen, etc., a 20-30L bag will do just fine. For multi-day trips, look for an additional large bag (70-100L) to hold your tent, sleeping bag, and other big items. Summer is a mere three months here, and if you like to be on the water any longer than that, expect unpredictable temps. Wetsuits and drysuits allow people in small crafts to paddle comfortably throughout the spring and fall. Same goes for pogies; they can be a saving grace for your hands on a cold day. Last but not least, we’re not here to police you on risk-taking, but if you intend to dabble with some faster water, it’s a good idea to have a helmet. Yours truly has bonked his head numerous times in the Mad Mile alone. Without the brain bucket, I may not even be around, or at least coherent enough, to pen this article.

Etiquette
River manners are not hard to follow; all it takes is some self-awareness and a bit of planning. Rule number one: do not clog up the boat ramp. If you’re launching a driftboat or raft, put on sunscreen, rig up your fishing rod, and pack the cooler away from the ramp, in a manner that does not impede or prevent any other party from accessing the water. You should feel anxious every time your truck is on the ramp. Get in, get out.

While on the water, give people space. Don’t pull out from an eddy directly in front of a group that’s in the main current, and grant people fishing from the bank a wide berth. In essence, it’s the Golden Rule—follow it and the river will treat you right.

Events
May-August
Kayaking Lessons – Bozeman. Whether it’s a six-week class or a single-day private session, Wave Train Kayak offers a fleet of courses to help you work on everything from basic paddling technique to advanced whitewater mechanics. wavetrainkayakteam.com

June
Gallatin Whitewater Festival – Bozeman. Suit up for a rip-roarin’ time in high-water season. Participate in one of (or all) three whitewater races including a slalom, individual timed, and a mass start. gallatinwhitewaterfestival.com

Wednesdays
Community Paddle Day – Bozeman. Meet like-minded folks and paddle a section of choice on the Gallatin after work. wavetrainkayakteam.com

July
Annual Yellowstone River Boat Float – Livingston. Join an annual tradition that stretches back nearly 60 years and float from Livingston to Columbus on a hot weekend in July. facebook.com

 

Hard-Rock Life

by Jack Taylor

A guide to rock climbing in and around Bozeman.

Rock climbing is a hallmark of outdoor recreation. Seriously—carabiners and ropes have essentially become the universal signals of people who like to spend time outside. Oh, you’ve got a spring-loaded metal device affixed to your water bottle? Where did you go camping last weekend?

Joking aside, climbing is fun for pretty much anyone. And for some folks, it becomes an all-absorbing obsession. Perhaps there’s a primal urge hard-coded in our DNA inherited from tree-swinging apes. We have an impulse to climb. It feels good.

And fortunately, there are plenty of spots to rock climb around Bozeman. For beginners and experts alike, our mountains and valleys are dotted with cliffs of all different rock types—granite, limestone, and sandstone alike. So whether you’re an expert or neophyte, here’s what you need to know about climbing in southwest Montana.

Where to Go
Beginner
For easy sport climbing, Bear Canyon is the go-to. There are tons of bolted routes in the 5.6-5.10 range. It’s also one of the closest climbing areas to downtown Bozeman—just a 20-minute drive and 10-minute approach.

Allenspur is another great beginner-friendly zone (albeit a bit farther from town), and has some more difficult climbs to be found—it’s a good spot if you’re looking to appease climbers with a variety of skill levels.

Intermediate
When it’s time to notch it up, Practice Rock offers a selection of climbs from 5.6-5.12. There aren’t any sport climbs per se, but it’s possible to hike to the top and set up a top-rope on a bolted anchor for nearly every climb.

Another popular area is Bozeman Pass, with a variety of sport-climbing crags offering routes across a broad range of difficulty. The Training Wall is known for having some local test-pieces.

Advanced
Gallatin Canyon is the beating heart of Bozeman-area rock climbing. With hundreds of routes ranging from moderate multipitch romps to nails-hard crack climbs, there’s enough to keep a zealous climber entertained for years on end.

Wolverine Bowl has the best limestone sport climbing in the area. It’s bullet-hard, very sharp, and dotted with long pitches in the 5.11-5.12 range. Not to mention, its setting in the Bridgers is quite serene.

Far-Flung
Looking for a weekend road-trip outside the immediate area? Natural Bridge has some of the best sport climbing in the state. Pipestone has a plethora of boulders and cracks, with nice camping. The Humbug Spires offer tantalizing faces and cracks, and are steeped in climbing history.

Tying In
Around Bozeman, you’ll find lots of places to climb—and fortunately, not too many other people out there. Still, there are some important pieces of etiquette to keep in mind.

First and foremost, give people space. With plenty of room to spread out, there’s no need to be crowding another party on a route. Wait patiently for a pitch to open. There’s surely something else nearby.

On the other hand, don’t be a hoarder. Spending two hours working the most popular route at the crag on a busy weekend is pretty inconsiderate.

Music is a polarizing topic. At the end of the day, though, it’s presumptuous to think that other people are okay with you blasting tunes out there. Some of us are trying to enjoy nature for all that it is—sound (or lack thereof) included.

And then there are dogs. Lots of them around here, in fact. If you bring your dog climbing, it is absolutely imperative that you consider the impact on other people. Well-trained dogs who lay at your feet or stay out of the way are perfectly fine. But if you’ve got a four-legged nuisance on your hands who is running amok, stepping on ropes, and bothering other climbers, you’re not going to make any new pals.

Events
One of the coolest parts about climbing in Bozeman is that we have such a tight-knit community of climbers. You’re bound to start seeing familiar faces within just a few outings. On top of that, we’ve got a smattering of year-round events where you can brush up on skills, help with crag maintenance, and meet like-minded folks.

Mondays, Thursdays, Sundays
Climbing Clinics – Bozeman. Learn the fundamentals of belaying, communication, rope management, and climbing movement, then progress to more advanced skills such as leading and anchor-cleaning. spireclimbingcenter.com

Thursdays
Speaker Series – Bozeman. Swing by Uphill Pursuits on select Thursdays throughout the year for talks by local experts on everything in the mountains, from first aid to expedition reports. uphillpursuits.com

March
Spring Fling – Bozeman. Before you head outdoors for the summer, have one last hurrah at the indoor wall to celebrate climbing and watch the best throw down. spireclimbingcenter.com

May-August
Crag Maintenance – various locations. Help maintain the climbing areas we love and their access trails with the Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition. As a bonus, you’re bound to meet some like-minded folks to rope up with. swmontanaclimbers.org

June
Montana Women’s Climbing Festival – Helena. Going into its fourth year, this festival is a fun-filled gathering for lady-crushers in the area. Sign up for a clinic to learn some new skills, or just go out to enjoy the climbing and company. mtwomensclimbingfest.com

September
Tour de Hyalite – Hyalite Canyon. A classic friendly competition in an iconic setting: race to the top of Hyalite Peak and back, then climb pitches at Practice Rock to take time off the clock. swmontanaclimbers.org