Academics, Preparation

Avy Savvy

By: Jack Taylor

A rundown on snow-safety resources.

“If you want to learn about something, going to school is just one way to do it.” —Doug Chabot, director of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center (GNFAC)

Avalanches: the big, bad monster hiding under the bed for backcountry skiers. Every year we hear about avalanche incidents and fatalities in our local area. The cold, hard truth is that death is an inherent risk when backcountry skiing.

Another truth is that avalanche education is widely available. In fact, avalanche-education events happen nearly every day throughout winter in the Bozeman area—many of them for free. Our local avalanche center puts out forecasts every day—also free. And there’s a limitless amount of information accessible on the internet—again, free.

It’s a common misconception that avalanche education is prohibitively expensive. Yes, a formal, accredited course is the gold standard. But if you can’t afford it, plenty of other options exist.

There’s no “one thing” you can do to be safe from avalanches—except for avoiding avalanche terrain altogether. Avalanche safety is an amalgamation of skills such as terrain recognition, snowpack assessment, weather observations, decision-making, leadership, and rescue. So this winter, whether you’re a first-time skier or seasoned vet, take some time to develop, enhance, or just brush up on your avy skills.

Print Resources
These publications are timeless resources, but bear in mind that experts are still learning more about avalanches every year—so pay attention to the publication date.

  • Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain
  • Avalanche Essentials
  • Avalanche Pocket Guide
  • Snow Sense
  • Allen & Mike’s Avalanche Book
  • The Snowy Torrents
  • The Avalanche Handbook

Online Resources
The internet has made avalanche education more accessible (and more up to date) than ever. There are tons of resources to peruse: social media accounts, YouTube channels, incident archives, and so on. Here are some places to begin your search.

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Training
From seminars, to organized practice sessions, to field clinics, there are free and low-cost avalanche-training events happening all the time in and around Bozeman. Check with any of the above resources, or your favorite local gear shop, for more info.

Courses
If you want to take a formal, accredited avalanche course, more power to you. These courses can be expensive, but the benefit is long-duration, hands-on instruction by professional instructors. Local course providers include:

  • Beartooth Powder Guides
  • Big Sky Backcountry Guides
  • Montana Alpine Guides
  • Montana Backcountry Yurts
  • Montana Mountaineering Association
  • MSU Outdoor Rec
  • Six Points Avalanche Education

Dos and Don’ts
A comprehensive list of avalanche-safety rules would take up this entire magazine. Here’s a cursory overview.

DO: Ask questions. Avalanche safety is all about gathering information. What safety gear do I need? How do I use it? Where can I ski that’s safe? How do I test the snowpack?
DON’T: Take every answer at face value. Instead, be investigative. Use reputable sources. Email [email protected] with any questions you have.

DO: Practice. Get to know your safety gear. Get to know the snowpack. Get to know your partners.
DON’T: Get complacent. Many accidents happen when the guard is down. Stay on your toes out there.

DO: Read, or listen to, the avalanche forecast. It’s published every morning in text and audio format. Many folks make a habit of listening to it in the car with their ski partners on the way to the trailhead.
DON’T: Hesitate to change plans. Higher wind gusts than expected last night? Dial it back. Warmer temps than expected today? Make a turnaround time. There’s always another day to ski.

Human Factors
Group dynamics and decision-making are critical components of backcountry skiing. Tomes have been written about human factors in avalanche safety. Start by looking up the F.A.C.E.T.S. acronym, which outlines common traps we fall into:

Familiarity – Feeling more comfortable in a place we’ve already been
Acceptance – Wanting to prove our worth to others
Consistency – Tending to stick with decisions we’ve already made
Expert Halo – Assuming that more experienced opinions are more important
Tracks – Rushing to ski a slope before it gets tracked out
Social Facilitation – Altering our risk tolerance when other people are watching

Knowledge vs. Experience
Reading avalanche reports, watching instructional videos, and taking courses will help you learn about avalanches. But at a certain point, you need to get out in the snow to get experience. This does NOT mean diving head-first into avalanche terrain. To the contrary, you can learn a lot about avalanches from well within the safe zone.

So go outside and bury a beacon. Dig a hole and look for weak layers. Look for signs of wind-loading or propagation. Compare a slope-angle map to your inclinometer. Ski powder, get face shots, and high-five your friends. If you’ve read this far, you’re already on your way to becoming a savvy backcountry skier.

Preparation

Winter Watch-Outs

By Jack Taylor

A little prep goes a long way.

Winter in Montana is magical. Our landscape takes on a beautiful frozen stillness that beckons us to venture out among frosty firs, blanketed meadows, and frozen waterfalls. Even as temperatures plunge below zero, we catch glimpses of wildlife adapted to survive in the snowglobe. But as humans, we’re not so adept at enduring the cold. We depend on warm clothing, heating, and shelter to make it through. The margin for error in the outdoors is thinner during winter, and a mishap can quickly turn dangerous if you’re not prepared.

Before you take on the snowy roads, make sure your vehicle is capable. Snow tires are highly recommended and will make your life easier—and safer—all winter long. Yes, it’s a big investment, but with two sets of tires for summer and winter, each will last twice as long. If you must go without, a set of chains in your car will get you out of a pickle. Make sure they fit your tires, and practice installing them so that you can do it quickly when the time comes. If you have a front- or four-wheel drive car, put them on the front tires; if rear-wheel, put them on the back. A few more items to keep in your car include a shovel for digging yourself out, jumper cables in case your battery dies, and gloves plus warm jackets (or even a sleeping bag) in case you get stuck for a long time.

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Extra warm layers are also essential when venturing away from your vehicle. A good rule of thumb is to bring one layer more than you think you’ll need—better safe than sorry. When planning your layering scheme, start with a moisture-wicking baselayer made of synthetic fibers or wool. Never wear cotton for warmth in winter; if it gets wet, it won’t dry out until you’re back in a warm environment. Fleece makes a great midlayer for top and bottom, and the same rule applies for materials. A waterproof shell usually isn’t necessary given the dryness of our winters, but a windbreaker will add protection without taking up much space in your pack. On top of that, an insulated jacket with synthetic or down fill gives you lots of warmth with little extra weight to carry. Down has a better warmth-to-weight ratio, but like cotton, it will not dry in the cold, so synthetic is always a safer bet.

Activities

Winter’s Delight

by Corey Hockett

Some of the greatest moments of winter outings come as anticipation before and ravishment after. Indeed, fueling up and winding down is a big part of what makes these excursions so attractive. What beats raising a glass with your buddies at the end of an epic powder day? How good does that first sip of coffee taste before a weekend road trip? These periods of transition provide your getaway with wholesomeness. And in Bozeman, where there is no lack of adventures to choose from, après (and avant) is no different.

Fueling Up
In winter, it’s hard to leave the coziness of the comforter and strike out into the cold. Get started with hot drinks and warm sandwiches from one of our standout coffee shops and delis. If you’re headed up Bridger Canyon to the ski hill, Crosscut, or Brackett Creek, hit Ghost Town for smooth-sipping coffee and a hefty breakfast burrito. If you’re eastbound on the interstate toward Paradise Valley, pick up a warm cup o’ tea at Townshend’s. Going west, you say? Fill up at Wheat Montana at the junction of Hwy. 287 and score a serious bang for your buck with a Belt burritos. The classic rendezvous locale south of town is Slider’s Deli at the mouth of Big Sky. Grab a coffee on your way through, or, if you’re ending the day early, stop in for a sandwich or burger before your trip home. Last but certainly not least: if you’re planning a half-day at Bridger, pick up a giant Pickle Barrel sandwich and chow down on your way to the hill.

Winding Down
Ski hills are the quintessential locales for après. If you’re wrapping up a day at Bridger Bowl, you’ve got options. It’s always worth having one (just one, if you’re driving) on the hill, and for this I recommend the Grizzly Ridge Station (aka, the Griz). We’re talkin’ $3 pints here. Of Olympia, that is; but let’s face it, you’re looking for something light anyway. Face Shots in the Jim Bridger Lodge is also tried and true. Got a designated driver with you? Have one at each.

If Big Sky is your choice of exploit, you have plenty of choices as well—just be prepared to loosen the purse strings. Scissor Bills is a local favorite. Amongst the mass of infrastructure, this homey saloon overlooks the base area and has plenty of room to spread out. Have a round by the window where an upper-level perspective grants great views of the base area.

Beers are fine and dandy, but if you’re itching for something with a little more zip—something that burns the throat and warms the belly—Bozeman has an exceptional spread of distilleries. Check out Wildrye in the Cannery District and Bozeman Spirits downtown. On the way back from Bridger, stop into Valhalla Meadery for a unique, historic libation to warm your frozen insides. If you happen to be passing through Ennis, don’t miss Willie’s on the main drag—their Bighorn Bourbon rivals any whiskey in the West.

Speaking of small-town spots, some of the most pleasant après experiences are away from the Bozeman bustle—wood-door saloons, old-time taxidermy bars, and venues with no dress code whatsoever. On your next trip to Yellowstone, stop in at the Antler Pub & Grill for a western Montana meal at its finest. Heading north? Hit Canyon Ferry Brewing in Townsend after ice fishing the reservoir. In Ennis, you’ll find great beer and delicious food at Burnt Tree Brewing, across the street from Willie’s.

These are just a few of our favorite places—there are plenty more. But don’t take our word for it, get out and try for yourself. The more places you try, the better notion you’ll have of all the options to suit your winter’s day. Bozeman is a mountain town, and its après reflects that. Experience it wearing your ski pants, laughing with friends, and repping a goggle tan—the rest of us will be out there doing the same.

Preparation

Reading List

by Jack Taylor

You’ve made it to Bozeman, and you’re ready to explore southwest Montana’s endless expanses. But where to go first? Start by doing some research–it pays to have a plan for every excursion. Thankfully, you have a wealth of resources at your disposal to find the best trail, mountain, or stream for your next outing. Here are some of our top picks for getting the lay of the land.

Printed Guides
Nothing beats a quality, dedicated guidebook. Build a bookshelf collection for your favorite outdoor activities, and make sure these are included:

  • The Last Best Trails: Montana (SINTR, $30)
  • Day Hikes around Bozeman: (Day Hikes Books, $16)
  • Southern Montana Singletrack: (Beartooth Publishing, $30)
  • Bozeman Rock Climbs: (High Gravity Press, $25)
  • Paddling Montana: (Falcon Guides, $25)
  • Cast: Fishing Southwest Montana: (Outside Media Group, free)
  • Stalk: Hunting Southwest Montana: (Outside Media Group, free)
  • The House of Hyalite: (Joe Josephson, $36)
  • Peaks and Couloirs of Southwest Montana: (Chris Kussmaul, $45)

Printed Maps
Even in the age of digital everything, a good ol’ printed map is an invaluable resource. For close-to-home outings, start with the Gallatin Valley Land Trust’s map, which covers all the trails in and around Bozeman proper. it’s available from retailers around town for $3. (For a free digital version, go to gvlt.org/trails/trail-maps.) For Bozeman’s premier backyard playground, Hyalite Canyon, the nonprofit Friends of Hyalite makes a great fold-out recreation map in two versions: winter and summer. Pick one up around town for $5, or view it digitally any hyalite.org/recreation-maps. Beartooth Publishing is our go-to for detailed topographic maps of southwest Montana, complete with roads, trails, and usage restrictions; order print copies from beartoothpublishing.com or find them in local stories. Our favorite all-around option is Bozeman Area Outdoor Recreation Map, which sells for $16. For general trip-planning throughout the state, pick up a copy of the DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer. For more detail, order zoomed-in, area -specific, waterproof maps from MyTopo, a custom-mapping outfit in Billings. A large-format wall map of southwest Montana from Basin and Range Mapping will help you see the big picture and make planning that much easier.

Apps
For hunter and anglers, there are three go-to apps you’ll want on your smartphone or GPS: Montana Fishing Access, Montana Hunting Access, and onWater. The first two are activity-specific and produced right here in Bozeman by Mountainworks Software; the latter is a leading map for fishing access, flows, and reports all in one place.

Websites
You’ll find plenty of information online to learn about local outdoor opportunities. For a collection of general resources, head to outsidebozeman.com and poke around–all day, if you’re not careful. Looking for specific trail descriptions? Check out outsidebozeman.com/trails, gvlt.org/trails/featured-trails, or trailforks.com. For updates and news in the world of mountain biking, including suggested rides, take a look at southwestmontanamba.org. Climbers, head to swmontanaclimbers.org for access information and stewardship projects. If you’re heading for the rivers, check out waterdata.usgs.gov for water levels, bigskyfishing.com for angling info, and fwp.mt.gov for fishing regulations. In the winter, if you plan on heading into the backcountry, stay updated with avalanche forecasts from mtavalanche.com. For general tips & tricks regarding outdoor safety and skills, check out outsidebozeman.com/skills.

Stores
Nothing beats a well-stocked retailer for hands-on gear comparison, along with free advice from local professionals. Southwest Montana teams with outdoor shops; stop in and hit ‘em up for tips and guidance. Just be sure to buy something while you’re there; Montanans are a friendly, helpful lot, but nobody likes a freeloader.

Activities

Shouldering the Burden

By: Corey Hockett

Making the most of the in-between time.

Whatever the activity, nothing beats being in the swing of the season. Skiing deep powder in February, paddling roaring whitewater during peak runoff, riding tacky dirt in the dog days of summer—you get the idea. Conditions are at their best and (theoretically) so are our bodies. We’ve had time to build muscles and adjust joints to meet the demands of the sport, all while the natural environment has grown into the fullest version of itself. Primo, as they call it.

Thing is, the swing of the season doesn’t last very long around here.

You’ll find that in Bozeman, weather and conditions are so frequently changing, it can be hard to know what to expect in any given month. Sometimes—and this is no exaggeration—the whole freakin’ year can be one giant shoulder season. Even predictable years have entire months of inconvenient transition. There will always be periods where it’s either too rainy or not snowy enough. And how as outdoor recreators do we handle this time of limbo? Luckily, there are plenty of options.

Head to Drier/Warmer Climes
When the weather turns salty in either spring or fall and heading to the mountains is no longer an option, shift your gaze west of the Gallatin Valley to the rocky bluffs of Copper City. The Southwest Montana Mountain Bike Association (SWMMBA) and the BLM teamed up to make this area a standout biking destination for riders of all levels. From cross-country cruisers to expert-only downhill, there’s something for everyone. There’s even a kid’s pump track in the parking lot. The trails are foot-friendly, too, so hikers and runners are welcome as well.

Head south another half-hour along the banks of the Jefferson River, and you’ll come to Lewis & Clark Caverns. The limestone cave system is one of the most unique features in all of southwest Montana. Apart from offering a spectacular tour, the state park hosts several trails for hiking and biking, as well as campsites to boot.

Further west, but still on this side of the Continental Divide, lies the mini-Moab of Pipestone. One of the first places to dry out in the spring—and last to stay dry in the fall—this trail network is both expansive and diverse. A labyrinth of four-wheel, doubletrack, and singletrack offer both mountain and dirt-bikers their pick of the litter. Dispersed campsites are around every bend, so find one with a good view. And if you’re not planning on staying, you’re a measly one-hour drive back to town. That’s nothing in Montana.

Make it a Multisport
Sure, it’s easy to shrug off shoulder seasons with an attitude of, Welp, the trails are wet, might as well stay home. But why not go the other direction? Trail ethics in mind, beauty lies in the eye of the beholder. And there’s a lot of potential when multiple seasons are acting together. Combining two or more outdoor activities in a single day can be as easy as trail running your raft shuttle or biking to a hunting spot. We’re lucky that it’s easy to get pretty creative without straying far from town.

Fairy Lake Multisport
In late spring, when the foothills have shed all of winter’s snow but a few ski lines still remain in good condition, pick a morning with promising weather and head toward Fairy Lake. The upper road is closed from December to June, which makes it a great ride when the gates are locked. Load your skis, boots, and poles to the outside of your pack and start pedaling. When you hit the trailhead, stow the bikes and take off on foot. You’ve got 1.5 miles and 1,000 feet of vertical to reach the pass where you’ll be greeted with a sweeping view of the Gallatin Valley. Turn south toward the high point of the Bridgers (Sacajawea) and climb another 1,000 feet over the next half-mile to just below the summit. Tag it if you wish, but the way down is Sac’s sister summit, Naya Nuki, another quarter-mile south.

The prominent ribbon of snow running down into the basin is known as the Great One, and it reliably holds snow ’til the Fourth of July. Ski it in shorts or be prepared to change into them at the bottom. A short hike from where the snow ends brings you to Fairy Lake. Welcome summer with a dip in its chilly waters before retrieving the bikes and enjoying the ride back down to your rig.

Hyalite Cast & Climb
Come late fall / early winter, on a day when the weather is warmish but unpredictable and getting too far from the car seems like a bad idea, head up to Practice Rock for some easy-access climbing. The pullout is on the right, three miles after the turn for Hyalite Canyon. The cliff is a couple hundred yards uphill from the parking area. Routes range from 5.6 to 5.12, with options to set up a top-rope on several climbs.

When your arms are pumped or you’ve had your fill, mosey back down to the car for a change of pace. Swap harnesses and chalk bags for fishing poles and flies or lures. The creek is a stone’s throw from the climbing access, so no need to drive anywhere if you don’t want. Explore up or downstream as your heart desires. Alternatively, if you’ve got a human-powered watercraft, make the 10-minute drive up to the reservoir, launch your vessel, and fish the deep waters of the lake. All this can be done in half a day, and retreat remains easy the whole time.

Suck it Up
Your third option is fairly straightforward. Head to one of our many local gear companies and support them (and yourself) by investing in a good fleece, a reliable rain jacket, a warm beanie, quality gloves, and some thick skin. Retailers may not be able to help with the latter, but in all fairness your well-being is up to you. Conditions here are inclement. This is Montana, by God: no place for pansies. People have been enjoying themselves outside year-round for thousands of years. If you really want, you’ll find a way, too.

Activities

Nordic Nuts

by Eli Fournier

Nordic skiing around the Bozone.

Getting outside and staying fit during the warmer months is a breeze around here, but doing so in the winter is more challenging. The short days and long nights don’t make it any easier. Fortunately, Bozeman is a Nordic skier’s haven. On any given day, you’re apt to see Olympians, child prodigies, weekend warriors, and avid recreational aficionados all on the same trails. And with bountiful options both in town and just a few minutes’ drive away, getting out for a quick jaunt is easy.

Classic vs. Skate
Nordic skiing can broadly be broken down into two general styles: classic and skate. The two differ in several key ways. Classic skiing is more beginner-friendly, and is done with a walk-kick technique similar to running, while skating is more of a moving duck-walk.

The skis used for each technique differ as well. Classic skis have distinct “kick” and “glide” zones on the bottoms that are waxed differently. As a lower-maintenance alternative to wax, a “fish scale” pattern on the kick section can provide traction and prevent backwards slippage.

The base of a skate ski, on the other hand, is consistent across the entire ski, coated entirely with temperature-specific glide wax that make the entire ski slippery. Good luck “walking” with these—you won’t make it far. Instead, a “skating” pattern (similar to ice skating) propels you forward.

Where to Go
Classic skiers can use both groomed and ungroomed trails, while skate skiers are limited to the former. We’ll touch on groomed trails first.

Right in town are the Sunset Hills and Highland Glen trail systems. Thanks to snowmaking and grooming operations by the Bridger Ski Foundation (BSF), these two tracks are among the first to come into shape, usually in early December. Hit them in the morning, or practice your agility on skis by navigating around gaggles of kids at afternoon ski lessons. Also in town is the Bridger Creek Golf Course. Park at the clubhouse and warm up on the flat lower loops before doing a few intervals on the upper, hillier section.

A 20-minute drive from downtown is the Sourdough Trail. This track is also groomed by BSF, but is open to shared use. Realistically, most hikers, snowshoers, and runners only make it up to “the bridge,” around mile four. Beyond that, the track is in much better shape, and continues another five miles to Mystic Lake, or over Moser Pass to the Moser trailhead up Hyalite Canyon.

Speaking of Hyalite, there are several groomed trails stemming from the main parking lot at Hyalite Reservoir. These trails snake around the lake and surrounding forests, and are groomed intermittently at best—usually just a few times per season—making them a better option for classic skiers.

For classic and skate skiers alike, Crosscut Mountain Sports Center is far and away the best locale for Bozeman-area Nordic nuts. The grooming is immaculate, with all trails being hit by the snowcat once or twice per day. Check their detailed forecast for hour-by-hour weather and snow reports.

A little farther away, and more suited for a weekend trip, are the West Yellowstonetrails. These tracks are a few thousand feet higher in elevation than those around Bozeman, and are the first to load in with snow every winter. In a typical year, college Nordic teams from across the country descend on West Yellowstone over Thanksgiving for an early-winter training trip. For serious skiers looking to test their skills (and endurance), there are a couple of annual races on the West Yellowstone trails.

For classic skiers looking to get off the beaten path, backcountry singletrack trails like Brackett Creek, Goose Creek, and Bear Canyon are good options for more solitary excursions.

Etiquette
The single largest Nordic-skiing faux pas is damaging a ski track—be that snowshoeing on a singletrack or walking on a groomed trail (with the exception of Sourdough—and even then, it’s important to minimize the damage by sticking to the side of the trail). Nordic skiing on a lumpy track is no fun at all.

Additionally, don’t be a snob. Nordic skiing ain’t a cheap sport, and especially in the competitive world, it can be a touch elitist. Do your part to counter that by being friendly at the trailhead and on the trails. If someone asks you a question about wax or conditions, share what you know in a non-condescending way to encourage more participation in the sport. And on Sourdough, be nice—a friendly request to keep the dog out of the track is way better than a nasty comment as you ski past. Honey catches more flies than vinegar.

 

Around the Bozone

Birds of a Feather

By Jamie Rankin

Bozeman brims with not only outdoor-recreation opportunities, but also close-knit communities dedicated to getting outside. If you’re looking to get involved in the outdoors and meet new people along the way, here are some local groups and clubs to scope out.

Running
Big Sky Wind Drinkers: started in the 1970s; they hold races year-round, as well as weekly fun runs in the summer and winter. winddrinker.org

Hunting & Fishing
Backcountry Hunters & Anglers: is dedicated to protecting fish & wildlife habitat, public land, and public access. backcountryhunter.org

MSU Fly Fishing Club: brings folks together to fish, tie flies, and get involved with local conservation events. @bozotroutbums on Instagram

Biking
Gallatin Valley Bicycle Club: holds training events, races, and group rides; and keeps members apprised of other local biking events. gallatinvalleybicycleclub.org

Southwest Montana Bike Association: is a nonprofit dedicated to maintaining trails and organizing group rides for those of all ability levels. southwestmontanamba.org

Paddling
Wave Train Kayak Team: teaches adult paddling courses of various skill levels. wavetrainkayakteam.com

Bozeman Whitewater: is a group that organizes day trips on local rivers. @Bozemanwhitewater on Facebook

Skiing
Bridger Ski Foundation: offers educational and competitive ski programs for all ages. bridgerskifoundation.com

XC Skiers of Bozeman: os a group dedicated to coordinating Nordic ski days. @XCSkiers of Bozeman on Facebook

Climbing
SW Montana Climbers Coalition: is a nonprofit that advocates for climbing access and works to maintain routes. swmontanaclimbers.org

Woman’s-Specific
Lady Runners Bozeman: connects runners of all skill levels in the Bozone. @Lady Runners: Bozeman on Facebook

Bozeman Pedal Project: is a biking Facebook group that coordinates group rides. @Bozeman Pedal Project of Facebook

Mountain Belles: and the MSU chapter of Backcountry Squatters organize trips of all type & activity year-round. Find the both on Facebook. @MountainBelles & @BackcountrySquatters

Activities

Do Go Chasing Waterfalls

by Jack Taylor

Bozeman has some of the best ice climbing in the Lower 48, from easy top-rope crags in Hyalite to grueling alpine routes in the Beartooths. Many folks arrive in this town having never even considered ascending a frozen waterfall using sharp metal spikes, only to find themselves fully hooked on the sport just a few years later. Once considered the realm of extreme alpinists, ice climbing is now an avocation for the masses. Clinics are offered all winter by various guide services, so you can safely learn the ropes. And in case you haven’t already heard about it, the annual Bozeman Ice Festival is not to be missed.

Where to Go
Beginner
Though Hyalite has a good selection of easy climbs, as a starting place, one crag is more popular than all the rest: G1 (formally “Genesis 1”). It’s the closest cliff to the Grotto Falls parking area—just a 15-minute walk up the hill—and you can easily set up a top-rope by scrambling around to the right. Once you’ve mastered the movement here, check out nearby Lower Greensleeves, Fat Chance, and Mummy I.

Intermediate
A logical progression, the next step up is G2, about twice as far up the hill as G1. It’s longer, more difficult, and more exposed, but you can still hike around (left, this time) to set up a top-rope if you’re not up to leading yet. Other excellent intermediate climbs in Hyalite include Hangover, The Fat One, Mummy II, and Twin Falls.

Advanced
Hyalite has hundreds of ice and mixed climbs, and if you’re looking for a comprehensive guide, check out Joe Josephson’s guidebook The House of Hyalite. To get you started, though, here are some top picks: Responsible Family Men climbs a striking pillar hanging high on the canyon wall. Cleopatra’s Needle, when formed, is a breathtaking line near Twin Falls that’s sure to draw a crowd. Zack Attack, considered by many as the best winter route in Hyalite, tackles four pitches of rock and ice, guarded by a burly approach.

Outside of Hyalite, notable climbs include Hydromonster near Cooke City, California Ice up East Rosebud Creek, and the Lowe Route on the Sphinx—a popular early-season route that becomes a dangerous avalanche path once snow piles up.

Essential Gear
If you already rock climb, you’re off to a good start. Rope, harness, and helmet are the main essentials, in addition to a good pair of climbing boots. Shop around for a used pair if you’re just starting out—new ones are pretty spendy. Eye protection is crucial—clear or light-tinted glasses are nice for cloudy days. Of course, you’ll need crampons and ice tools, but if you’re just going out to top-rope, you can usually share these with your partner. Once you start leading and taking on multipitch climbs, you’ll need your own sets of spikes, plus a set of ice screws—six or seven should suffice Don’t forget about ice clippers: these plastic carabiners are specifically designed for racking ice screws and keep things a whole lot more organized on your harness.

On top of all that hardware, dressing the part is important. Start at skin-level: thick wool socks to prevent cold feet and bruised toes, and synthetic or wool long underwear on the top and bottom. Next, don a fleece sweater that you’ll be comfortable in all day, and perhaps fleece pants if it’s cold out. At this point, start piling on upper layers (too many lower layers will restrict movement in your legs). A synthetic insulated jacket will keep you toasty. Throw on a waterproof shell and rain pants to keep dripping water on the outside—even if it’s below freezing, ice climbs can still be wet. Carry two or three pairs of gloves, at least one of them waterproof, and a hat or balaclava that fits under your helmet. For really cold days, bring a big down parka, but be sure to only wear it when you’re belaying. If you wear it on a climb, it’s sure to get wet from sweat or dribbles, which will render those down feathers cold, heavy, and possibly damaged.

Make sure to bring enough food and water—your body burns a lot of calories when it’s cold. Some nice extra touches include a thermos of hot soup, tea, or cocoa; a package of handwarmers; and perhaps a nip of whiskey if you’re feeling frisky. Jokes aside, take safety seriously: carrying a satellite-communication device is always a good idea, and if you’re going into avalanche terrain, carry a beacon, shovel, and probe.