Tag Archives: rivers

Activities

All in a Summer

by Eli Fournier

Come summertime, there are the classic warm-weather pastimes like hiking, biking, climbing, and fishing, but numerous other activities can also fill a weekend. Listed here are a handful that make for fun excursions and take you to off-the-beaten-path locales.

Hunting
Montana is quite possibly the most hunter-friendly state in the country—both in terms of opportunity and the amount of game running around the hills. While elk and deer have a huge appeal, for newbies a good place to start is small game like grouse, squirrels, and rabbits. Learn to find, hunt, gut, skin, and cook them—gain competency with these smaller species before thinking about pursuing larger game. Rabbits and squirrels can be hunted year-round, so poke around some public land—ideally off-trail, to avoid spooking hikers—with a .22 rifle or 20-gauge shotgun. On September 1st, mountain-grouse season opens, and targeting these tasty birds really just involves hiking around the woods with a shotgun. Either a 12- or 20-gauge will get the job done. Look for ruffed grouse in thick brushy areas with abundant berries, and blue grouse on ridgetops. Either way, stay on high alert—these birds are often quick to fly when spooked.

Foraging
Part of living in Montana is learning basic woodsman skills—like starting a fire and identifying edible plants. If the latter is new to you, berry-picking is a great place to start. Huckleberries, wild strawberries, and raspberries are all easy to identify and can be picked in large quantities in the right places, at the right times. That means you could be reaping the rewards of your labors for months to come.

Another commonly-foraged food in southwest Montana is mushrooms. Morels in the spring and chanterelles in late summer provide two opportunities to fill the pantry with wild fungi. However, there are poisonous lookalikes for both species, so it’s worth going with someone who can positively identify both the safe and harmful varieties. An experienced forager can also show you the types of places to look for mushrooms—they require specific soil types, shading, and temperatures.

ChanterelleForaging-HebgenLake-EliFournier-4

Packrafting
Although a relatively niche activity, packrafting offers an adrenaline-packed avenue into relatively untouched places. Boats are expensive, but once acquired can open up a huge number of possibilities in southwest Montana. Think about hiking deep into a wilderness area and floating out in style, taking in the sights, sounds, and wildlife from the comfort of a boat. Modern packrafts are also capable whitewater boats, and with an experienced paddler at the helm, they can handle most things a larger raft or kayak could. Ask around and you can likely find someone with a packraft to test out before you go full-send on the activity. Just be sure to take care of your friend’s boat, and repay ’em with a sixer of beer.

Canoeing
While whitewater certainly steals the show in southwest Montana, stillwater shouldn’t be overlooked. Canoeing can be a tranquil way to spend a day, or if you’re into fishing, a productive means of covering water and finding fish. Some good options are Hebgen, Quake, and Ennis lakes. All three can get dangerously windy for canoes, though, especially in the afternoons. So consider putting on early. There are also a handful of canoe-friendly rivers that could make for overnight excursions, especially in late summer when the water’s too low for rafts. Look toward the Jefferson, Big Hole, Beaverhead, and Yellowstone, to name a few. Just remember that per Montana law, you must have a PFD on board for every person. Doesn’t mean you have to wear it all day, but it’s gotta be in the boat.

Regardless of how you enjoy a Montana summer, it’s hard to go wrong so long as you’re outside. Find a friend or mentor who’s into any of the above activities (shouldn’t be hard), and off you’ll ride (or paddle, or hunt) into the sunset.

Activities

Big Sky Boatin’

by Corey Hockett

Paddling in Southwestern Montana.

Montana’s boating scene often gets shrugged off like a younger brother. Pitted against other western states, its reputation falls short of Idaho’s coveted multi-day trips and the Northwest’s epic whitewater. This may be why river life in the Treasure State is overlooked and underrated. Regardless, it’s all good, because in Bozeman, you’re teed up for just about all you can ask for—and usually without the out-of-state crowds joining you.

Gallatin
A mere 20 minutes from town, the Gally is our closest gem. A low- to medium-volume river, typical flows range from 300-1,000cfs at the gauge at Gallatin Gateway, with peak runoff landing somewhere between 5,000 and 6,000. In June 2022, spring rains and a melting snowpack cultivated a raging torrent over 8,600cfs, the highest ever recorded since the gauge was installed in 1994.

As a shallower river, the rapids on the Gallatin vary in shape and size and are more technical in nature. Rafters are tested with regular rock-dodging, while smaller crafts can pick from a selection of routes ranging from small drops to demanding boofs for kayakers. Most of the whitewater lies between Deer Creek and Lower Storm Castle. Intermediate paddlers should stick to sections above Lava Lake. Below this access is the formidable Mad Mile. At flows above 3,000cfs, this is a continuous Class IV run. If this doesn’t sound like you, and lounging on the raft with a beer and your dog is more up your alley, check out the river between Manhattan and Missouri Headwaters State Park. Appropriate options include canoeing, rowing a driftboat, and floating on an inner tube.

Yellowstone
The longest freestone river in the Lower 48, the Yellowstone forms deep in the Absaroka Range and flows for nearly 700 miles through mountain gorges and across prairie flats until it joins the Missouri near Williston, North Dakota. Apart from its tumbling cascades inside the national-park boundary, which are off-limits to boaters, the best rapids lie between Gardiner and Carbella Campground. Here, two supreme sections of whitewater await the eager river-runner.

The first three miles downstream of Gardiner yield playful wave trains (Class II-III) all the way to McConnell Landing. The river mellows out for the next ten miles, but picks back up where a narrow gorge constricts near the Joe Brown put-in. The fabled Yankee Jim Canyon is a four-mile stretch with three notable features: Boat Eater, Big Rock, and Boxcar rapids. At low to medium levels, intermediate paddlers and rowers will find it exciting but manageable. When flows crest above 15,000cfs, think twice before going down. While the waves and holes become munchier, the strong eddy fences and unpredictable boils are just as likely to tip an inexperienced boatman.

Below Yankee Jim, the river’s character relaxes significantly. Occasional rapids pop up now and again, but for the most part the Yellowstone is a fishing-float from here out. Downstream from Livingston, one will find more intermediate waves between Springdale and Grey Bear. While the river appears slow from a distance, it’s worth noting that the current is sneakily strong and should be treated with utmost respect.

Madison
Renowned as a destination fly-fishing river, the Madison is more apt to attract anglers than it is paddling enthusiasts. That said, Bear Trap Canyon holds something for everyone. Set in the Lee Metcalf Wilderness, the river’s remoteness combined with its impressive rapid lineup make it one of the state’s most celebrated whitewater runs.

Below Ennis Lake, one can select from two put-ins. Entering directly below the dam will insert you into the action right away, with Double Drop Rapids (Class IV) right around the corner. For those who want a slower start, drive all the way to the end of the road and launch at the powerhouse. In one quick mile, Whitehorse Rapid provides an excellent warm-up with a steep gradient and a forgiving wave train. The meat of the run, however, is a distinctive S-turn that occurs exactly halfway down. The infamous Kitchen Sink is a string of drops that are demanding and technical at all water levels. Scout (or portage) on river right, and make sure to watch for rattlesnakes along the way. The second half of the canyon offers plenty of Class II rapids, as well as the unmistakable Green Wave, an exciting Class III to keep you honest.

For folks less interested in whitewater, the lower Madison provides a number of great scenic floats all the way to Headwaters State Park, with Warm Springs to Black’s Ford being the most popular tubing stretch.

Gear
Like many other outdoor activities, boating can take up a sizeable portion of the gear closet (actually, you’ll probably need a garage). If you’re new to the sport, the one thing you can count on needing, no matter when you go, where you go, how you go, is a PFD. Montana law mandates that you have one in the boat with you, and if you’re going to be running any sort of whitewater, we recommend not skimping on the quality.

No matter what type of craft you’ll be taking, drybags are handy. To keep an extra set of clothes, your phone, sunscreen, etc., a 20-30L bag will do just fine. For multi-day trips, look for an additional large bag (70-100L) to hold your tent, sleeping bag, and other big items. Summer is a mere three months here, and if you like to be on the water any longer than that, expect unpredictable temps. Wetsuits and drysuits allow people in small crafts to paddle comfortably throughout the spring and fall. Same goes for pogies; they can be a saving grace for your hands on a cold day. Last but not least, we’re not here to police you on risk-taking, but if you intend to dabble with some faster water, it’s a good idea to have a helmet. Yours truly has bonked his head numerous times in the Mad Mile alone. Without the brain bucket, I may not even be around, or at least coherent enough, to pen this article.

Etiquette
River manners are not hard to follow; all it takes is some self-awareness and a bit of planning. Rule number one: do not clog up the boat ramp. If you’re launching a driftboat or raft, put on sunscreen, rig up your fishing rod, and pack the cooler away from the ramp, in a manner that does not impede or prevent any other party from accessing the water. You should feel anxious every time your truck is on the ramp. Get in, get out.

While on the water, give people space. Don’t pull out from an eddy directly in front of a group that’s in the main current, and grant people fishing from the bank a wide berth. In essence, it’s the Golden Rule—follow it and the river will treat you right.

Events
May-August
Kayaking Lessons – Bozeman. Whether it’s a six-week class or a single-day private session, Wave Train Kayak offers a fleet of courses to help you work on everything from basic paddling technique to advanced whitewater mechanics. wavetrainkayakteam.com

June
Gallatin Whitewater Festival – Bozeman. Suit up for a rip-roarin’ time in high-water season. Participate in one of (or all) three whitewater races including a slalom, individual timed, and a mass start. gallatinwhitewaterfestival.com

Wednesdays
Community Paddle Day – Bozeman. Meet like-minded folks and paddle a section of choice on the Gallatin after work. wavetrainkayakteam.com

July
Annual Yellowstone River Boat Float – Livingston. Join an annual tradition that stretches back nearly 60 years and float from Livingston to Columbus on a hot weekend in July. facebook.com

 

Uncategorized

Streaming Service

by the editors

A fishing guide for the attendees of Trout U.

Ever wonder why Montana State is nicknamed Trout U? Because the Bozeman area’s got some of the best trout water in the world, that’s why. You have the privilege of taking classes less than an hour from three top-notch trout streams, and dozens of other fishing options. From alpine lakes in the backcountry to valley streams near town, MSU truly is an angler’s paradise.

If you’re new to the sport or new to the area, the first thing you’ll want to do is grab a copy of the Cast fishing guide. This local publication is full of everything you need to know about fishing in southwest Montana, from matching the hatch to how to get geared up. Once you have your bearings, you need only head to the river. With a little practice—and patience—you’ll be catching your limit in no time. Here’s some basic information to get you started.

The ultimate getaway.

The ultimate getaway.

Essential Gear

Walk into any outdoor store or fly shop, and the quantity, diversity, and variation—not to mention prices—of fishing gear can be overwhelming. Luckily, it’s not all essential to having fun and catching fish. A good all-around setup will keep you casting and catching all season, without breaking the bank.

For fly fishing, you’ll need a rod, reel, line, leader, and tippet. A good 9-foot, 5-weight, fast-action rod should handle everything from lightweight dry flies to heavier streamers. Match it with a 5-weight reel and a WF5 (weight-forward 5-weight) fly line. A 9-foot 5X leader and a range of tippet material, from 2X-6X, should accommodate most scenarios. Confused yet? Don’t worry; it makes sense once it’s all in your hands.

 

Every summer day is a good day for fly fishing.

Every day is a good day for fishing.

 

Next, get yourself some waders and wading boots, especially if you plan to fish in late fall, winter, and/or early spring. Be sure to use a wading belt so your waders don’t fill with water in the event of a plunge. Polarized sunglasses are great for spotting fish, although they can be expensive and are certainly not required.

Organize your flies in a fly box or sleeve; bring nippers for trimming line, floatant to keep your dry flies on top of the water, and pliers or forceps to removing hooks. Pack it all into a small chest-pack, butt-pack, or vest to keep it organized.

 

Brown trout, Yellowstone River

Brown trout, Yellowstone River

Where to Go

Hyalite Creek
The road to Hyalite Reservoir follows this creek and there are plenty of pullouts. Small rainbow trout are plentiful, and a well-presented dry fly will almost certainly entice a strike. For slightly larger fish, head up to the reservoir.

Gallatin River
The valley’s namesake waterway is a great option, thanks to its abundant public access, proximity to town, and high numbers of fish. Whether you fish the upper river in Gallatin Canyon or the lower section out in the valley, taking the time to walk a little ways from your car provides solitude and better fishing. The lower stretch holds larger fish and can provide good dry-fly fishing, especially on cloudy days. Cameron Bridge, Axtell Bridge, and Williams Bridge are all great starting points. Further south, Hwy. 191 follows the river through the canyon on the way to Big Sky and numerous pullouts access the river.

Beartrap Canyon.

Bear Trap Canyon.

 

Lower Madison River / Bear Trap Canyon
Head west and reach the picturesque Bear Trap in less than 30 minutes. From the trailhead, hike along the east side of the river to access nearly eight miles of pocket-water, deep holes, and weedbeds. Generally speaking, this section of river is not known as a dry-fly haven, and it’s not the easiest place to learn how to properly drift an artificial fly. But if you’re after a big brown, the Madison’s your spot. Strip big, ugly streamers like a zonker, double bunny, or wool-head sculpin.

Events

The fishing calendar is full January through December, but certain events stand out. From film festivals to fly-tying clinics, there’s always something for the trout enthusiast. Below are a few highlights; for more, check out Outside Bozeman’s event calendar.

Wednesdays
Fly-tying – Big Sky. Every Wednesday evening, all year long, the pros at Gallatin River Guides teach a fly-tying class. The atmosphere is informal, so whether you’ve tied flies before or not, it’s a great opportunity to work on your skills. Details here.

August 29
Upper Gallatin River Cleanup – Big Sky. Before you get too bogged down in schoolwork, lend a helping hand to the good folks at the Gallatin River Task Force. Clean rivers mean healthy fish, and healthy fish mean good fishing. Details here.

August 30 – August 31
Fly Fishing & Outdoor Festival – Ennis. If you fish, odds are you’ll be spending lots of time in Ennis, a drinking town with a fishing problem about an hour west of Bozeman. Celebrate the end of summer with vendors from throughout the industry and activities including fly-tying demos, casting clinics, and more. Details here.

September 13-14
Trout Spey Days – West Yellowstone. Whether you’ve heard of spey casting or not, this event is sure to be intriguing. The legendary fly shop Big Sky Anglers hosts a weekend of classroom seminars and on-water clinics, all in the fishing hamlet of West Yellowstone, just outside the Park. Details here.

November 3
All waters close to fishing – Yellowstone National Park. After a long summer and a productive fall, it’s time to give the Park’s trout a break for the long winter ahead. They’ll be well-rested and hungry come spring. 

February 23
TroutFest Banquet – Bozeman. The Madison-Gallatin chapter of Trout Unlimited (TU) hosts its annual fundraiser every February. The local TU chapter is instrumental in fighting for access, keeping rivers clean, and keeping trout healthy. Details here.