Road Code

by Eli Fournier

Unlike other customs and etiquette around Montana, driving dirt roads is somewhat subjective and situationally-dependent. There are times when it’s okay to rally a dirt road like a redneck racecar driver, and times when it isn’t. Use the following as a guide to assess the situation and determine the proper dirt-road behavior.

Waving
Acceptable: Practice a one- or two-finger wave, and flash it over the steering wheel at other drivers who are also observing proper dirt-road etiquette.

Unacceptable: Not waving back at another driver, or flipping someone off for some minor infraction. Like the rest, use your judgement—appropriate etiquette can change depending on the situation.

Speed
Acceptable: What the hell else are dirt roads for? Letting ‘er rip on a straightaway comes naturally, so long as there’s a clear line of sight and no houses on either side.

Unacceptable: Forcing other cars off the road, cutting blind corners, and in general being oblivious or indifferent to the effect on others.

Mud
Acceptable: It’s pretty damn fun to slide around a bit on muddy roads—especially at the end of a spring or fall day when things have melted out and it’s a necessary evil to getting home.

Unacceptable: Intentionally ripping up wet, muddy roads, gouging out tracks and leaving ruts just for the sport of it.

Dust
Acceptable: If it’s hot and dry, you’re gonna dust people—no two ways about it. But use discretion and slow down, especially when passing houses, pedestrians, and bikers.

Unacceptable: Flying past bikers or hikers, leaving them blinded and choking on mouthfuls of tangy dust.

Hunting
Acceptable: Scouting for game from the road is a great, effective tactic, but don’t stop in the middle of the road to glass. Pull off to the side so other vehicles can get past.

Unacceptable: Shooting animals from the car or on the road. Step completely out of the road easement (generally, 30 feet from the centerline) before even thinking about loading the gun.

Roadies
Acceptable: Cracking a cold one when you turn off the highway or are heading home from hunting camp. Keep ’er in check, in control, and out of the ditch.

Unacceptable: Slamming a six-pack, tossing the cans out the window, and endangering other road users.

Winter’s Delight

by Corey Hockett

Some of the greatest moments of winter outings come as anticipation before and ravishment after. Indeed, fueling up and winding down is a big part of what makes these excursions so attractive. What beats raising a glass with your buddies at the end of an epic powder day? How good does that first sip of coffee taste before a weekend road trip? These periods of transition provide your getaway with wholesomeness. And in Bozeman, where there is no lack of adventures to choose from, après (and avant) is no different.

Fueling Up
In winter, it’s hard to leave the coziness of the comforter and strike out into the cold. Get started with hot drinks and warm sandwiches from one of our standout coffee shops and delis. If you’re headed up Bridger Canyon to the ski hill, Crosscut, or Brackett Creek, hit Ghost Town for smooth-sipping coffee and a hefty breakfast burrito. If you’re eastbound on the interstate toward Paradise Valley, pick up a warm cup o’ tea at Townshend’s. Going west, you say? Fill up at Wheat Montana at the junction of Hwy. 287 and score a serious bang for your buck with a Belt burritos. The classic rendezvous locale south of town is Slider’s Deli at the mouth of Big Sky. Grab a coffee on your way through, or, if you’re ending the day early, stop in for a sandwich or burger before your trip home. Last but certainly not least: if you’re planning a half-day at Bridger, pick up a giant Pickle Barrel sandwich and chow down on your way to the hill.

Winding Down
Ski hills are the quintessential locales for après. If you’re wrapping up a day at Bridger Bowl, you’ve got options. It’s always worth having one (just one, if you’re driving) on the hill, and for this I recommend the Grizzly Ridge Station (aka, the Griz). We’re talkin’ $3 pints here. Of Olympia, that is; but let’s face it, you’re looking for something light anyway. Face Shots in the Jim Bridger Lodge is also tried and true. Got a designated driver with you? Have one at each.

If Big Sky is your choice of exploit, you have plenty of choices as well—just be prepared to loosen the purse strings. Scissor Bills is a local favorite. Amongst the mass of infrastructure, this homey saloon overlooks the base area and has plenty of room to spread out. Have a round by the window where an upper-level perspective grants great views of the base area.

Beers are fine and dandy, but if you’re itching for something with a little more zip—something that burns the throat and warms the belly—Bozeman has an exceptional spread of distilleries. Check out Wildrye in the Cannery District and Bozeman Spirits downtown. On the way back from Bridger, stop into Valhalla Meadery for a unique, historic libation to warm your frozen insides. If you happen to be passing through Ennis, don’t miss Willie’s on the main drag—their Bighorn Bourbon rivals any whiskey in the West.

Speaking of small-town spots, some of the most pleasant après experiences are away from the Bozeman bustle—wood-door saloons, old-time taxidermy bars, and venues with no dress code whatsoever. On your next trip to Yellowstone, stop in at the Antler Pub & Grill for a western Montana meal at its finest. Heading north? Hit Canyon Ferry Brewing in Townsend after ice fishing the reservoir. In Ennis, you’ll find great beer and delicious food at Burnt Tree Brewing, across the street from Willie’s.

These are just a few of our favorite places—there are plenty more. But don’t take our word for it, get out and try for yourself. The more places you try, the better notion you’ll have of all the options to suit your winter’s day. Bozeman is a mountain town, and its après reflects that. Experience it wearing your ski pants, laughing with friends, and repping a goggle tan—the rest of us will be out there doing the same.

Sliding High

by the editors

Of all the outdoor activities available around Bozeman, downhill skiing is among the most celebrated. When that first dusting of snow comes in late fall, the upcoming ski season becomes the talk of the town. People come from all over the country to ski our famous cold smoke—fine, dry powder that stacks up by the hundreds of inches. It takes a hardy soul to get outside in the dead of winter here, but a fun day on the slopes with good friends makes it a whole lot easier. So whether you’re a lifelong skiing addict or a magic-carpet-riding neophyte, you’ve come to the right place.

Where to Go
Look around you—there are mountains in every direction, and every range offers good skiing. You’ve probably heard of Bridger Bowl and Big Sky Resort, and you can spark debate at any bar by asking which mountain is better. Go find out for yourself.

Outside of Bozeman’s immediate area are plenty of mom-and-pop hills to put on the list, most of which offer cheaper lift passes than Bridger, let alone Big Sky (got an extra $200, anyone?) Discovery, outside of Butte, is a great weekend trip with terrain for all levels. Other noteworthy ski areas are Maverick near Dillon and Red Lodge Mountain west of, yes, Red Lodge. Grand Targhee and Jackson Hole are also three hours away for those looking for a slightly longer road-trip. And don’t forget Showdown, the laid-back hill near White Sulphur Springs.

Backcountry adventures are near-limitless around here, and we’ll leave it to you to discover the hidden gems. But if you’re just getting started, check out Lick Creek, Goose Creek, or Telemark Meadows (full route descriptions can be found at outsidebozeman.com). All of these places have low avalanche danger and will let you get dialed in with your equipment before delving into snow science and risk assessment.

Essential Gear
There are no two ways about it: skiing is gear-intensive and it can be expensive to get started. Our local retail shops are top-notch, though, and several big sales happen throughout the year. And because Bozeman has so many skiers, there’s always a huge used market, too. Every fall, Bridger Ski Foundation hosts a ski-swap that draws in thousands of folks to buy and sell gear. If you miss the swap, you’ll still find plenty of offerings on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, and secondhand stores around town.

So what exactly do you need? Of course, skis, bindings, and boots are the foundation. Skis come in all different shapes and sizes, and have changed a lot over the past 20 years. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, aim for a pair of skis about the same height as you are, and around 90-100mm wide underfoot. Don’t buy some old clunkers that your friend’s dad grew up skiing on; they’ll be much harder to learn on than modern skis. Look harder for something newer—they’re out there. If you’re buying used, the skis will likely already have bindings on them. If you’re buying new, take the shop’s advice on bindings.

Boots are the most important—and most oft-overlooked—part of the ski setup. They’ll make or break your skiing experience. Poor-fitting boots are the most common reason why new skiers don’t stick with the sport, but a good fit will keep you comfortable all day long. Ski boots come in many different shapes, and what fits one skier perfectly could be disastrous for another, so don’t buy boots based on recommendations or reviews. There’s no substitute for a professional boot-fit at a shop.

If you’re interested in backcountry skiing, things get a bit more complicated. First off, there are many more nuanced options for backcountry bindings compared with the generally-universal models for pure downhill skiing. Many folks are tempted by heavier, more-secure touring bindings that mimic the safety mechanisms of downhill bindings, but keep in mind that the extra weight is going to tire you out in the skintrack. If it’s your first pair, go for something middle-of-the-road.

The same pattern goes for backcountry boots. Heavier boots offer better downhill performance, but lighter boots—often built with a smoother walk-mode—will take less effort when skinning. A good boot-fitter will point you in the right direction.

Touring skins come in lots of varieties these days. Skins designed for SkiMo racing are the lightest and most compact, and are usually cheaper than other models due to their minimalist design. These skins will also glide the most efficiently—again, saving you energy. You can opt for bigger skins with more grip, but as your technique improves, you won’t need it.

You’ll also need a beacon, shovel, and probe for venturing into the backcountry—and some training to learn how to use them. There are avalanche-safety courses offered all winter long around here—consider the course tuition just as important as any gear purchase. And last but not least, don’t forget your helmet!

Etiquette
For better or worse, skiing has a myriad of unwritten (and some written) rules. Some are arcane, but others are worth keeping in mind to ensure you don’t piss anyone off—or worse, put yourself in danger. First and foremost, remember that we’re all out there to have a good time. Keep a positive attitude, gab with strangers, and don’t hesitate to whoop and holler from the chairlift. Ski areas have a universal “responsibility code,” which many a skier, beginner and experienced, would benefit from studying up on. Know the code and it’ll be smooth sailing at the resort.

The backcountry has its own etiquette. Within your group, make sure that everyone’s voice is heard when making decisions. You’ll learn how to render informed judgements in an avalanche class, but a less-experienced person’s opinion is no necessarily less valuable. Keep your group size small—four or fewer is ideal, not only to ease decision-making, but also to lessen your impact on other groups. People are out there to experience nature, and no one wants to reach a hard-earned summit to find 10 other people hanging out. In a similar vein, give folks plenty of space. If another group is getting ready to ski an untracked line, don’t cut in front of them. A few other pointers: don’t pee or let your dog pee (or, God forbid, defecate) in the skintrack, don’t boot-pack up the skintrack (leaving annoying pockmarks for those behind you), and make sure to let people pass if they’re skinning faster than you.

Events
Bozeman loves skiing. Here are some popular events to prove it.

November
Ski Swap – Bozeman. Out with the old, in with the new(ish). If you’re new to skiing, don’t miss this. Bridger Ski Foundation’s annual swap at the Gallatin County Fairgrounds offers huge discounts on quality gear. Drop your old gear off the day before. bridgerskifoundation.org

November
Opening Day – Big Sky. 36 lifts, 4,350 feet of elevation, and 5,800 acres to play on. Have at it. bigskyresort.com

December
Projected Opening Day – Bridger Bowl. Weather permitting, chairs will start spinning for another season of winter fun at Bridger Bowl. Whether you’re first in line or last to leave, opening day is always a party. bridgerbowl.com

 January
Community GS Racing – Bridger Bowl. See how you stack up against the rest of the local crowd in this series of two-run GS races. Categories for ski, snowboard, and telemark. bridgerbowl.com

February
King & Queen of the Ridge – Bridger Bowl. Think you have what it takes to hike the Ridge more times than anyone else? Give it your best shot at this annual fundraiser for the Avalanche Center. bridgerbowl.com

Editor’s note: dates are subject to change. For the most updated information, visit outsidebozeman.com/events.

Slip-Slidin’ Away

by Cordelia Pryor

Winter in Montana is long, and while alpine skiing might be its most famous activity, Nordic skiing is another great way to get outside and actually enjoy the cold. It also helps you stay in shape and is simple enough for anyone to learn. Classic connoisseurs can enjoy both groomed and ungroomed trails, while skate skiers will find plenty of luxurious corduroy on which to push and glide. There’s a huge variety of terrain in and around Bozeman, and a really cool community to dive into—the backbone of which is the Bridger Ski Foundation (BSF), which maintains many of our local trails. Consider buying an optional trail pass to support their efforts.

Gearing Up
One of the great things about Nordic skiing is that there’s less gear and it’s (mostly) cheaper than a downhill setup. All you need are skis, boots, poles, and some comfy layers you can move in. Buying used gear is a great way to save cash, and you can always find a setup at a secondhand store or BSF’s annual Ski Swap. Or, rent equipment from somewhere like Chalet Sports or Round House, then buy once you know the style of skiing and type of ski that suits you best.

When it comes to clothing, anything warm, breathable, and waterproof will work for classic skiing. Use what you have before buying activity-specific items. For skate-skiing, breathability and freedom of movement are more important than warmth, as you’ll likely be sweating up a storm. Racers wear spandex and other form-fitting apparel, but that’s overkill for the recreational skier.

Classic skiers should keep in mind that they have two very different options: in the track and out. Track skis are generally skinnier and longer, and tend to perform poorly outside the groomed trails. Non-track skis vary widely in terms of width, length, and suitability for different terrain. Some of them will fit in the track and do just fine, while others are meant for off-trail travel. A little homework, online and at your local outdoor shop, will help you determine which type of ski—and which type of terrain—is best for you.

MSU students (and Alumni Association members) can rent a range of Nordic gear from the Outdoor Rec Center, for great prices.

Where to Go
While skate-skiers need a groomed trail, many classic skiers prefer snowed-over hiking paths and logging roads to a groomed track. These off-track options can be found in nearly every direction. What follows here is a list of groomed trails in the area, for skate-skiers and classic track-skiers. For tips on off-track outings, check out the Trails section on outsidebozeman.com. 

Bridger Creek Golf Course
Level: Beginner
Cost: Free (but consider buying a trail pass)
The Trails: This is a great spot for Nordic novices. With its easy, sweeping loops, you can hit the trails on both sides of the road and really get your footing. The northern side features slightly more varied terrain than the southern side, but the whole area is pretty mild and allows you to get your technique down without struggling (too much).

Highland Glen & Sunset Hills
Level: Intermediate, Advanced
Cost: Free (but consider buying a trail pass)
The Trail: Highland Glen and Sunset Hills have several different loops for you to twist together in a variety of combinations. Close to town, these spots are an easy mid-day hit. They have a few steep climbs to get your heart pumping, and the fast descents are always a blast.

Sourdough Canyon
Level: Intermediate
Cost: Free (but consider buying a trail pass)
The Trail: Sourdough is a Nordic nut’s paradise—it’s groomed for miles and climbs steadily at a mild incline along Bozeman Creek. Whether it’s a quick mile or a half-day haul, you can customize the length to your liking. Dogs are allowed, but scoop the poop and keep Bridger under control, lest you ruin the skiing experience for everyone else. 

Hyalite Canyon
Level: Intermediate, Advanced
Cost: Free (but consider buying a trail pass)
The Trails: Hyalite has a great mix of almost 20 miles of groomed and ungroomed terrain. The groomed trails traverse unused logging roads, hiking trails, and connector trails with terrain for most skill levels. Dogs are allowed as well. 

Crosscut Mountain Sports Center
Level: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced
Cost: $20 adult day pass, $250 season pass
The Trails: Crosscut is basically a small Nordic resort, and you’ll be dazzled by the well-maintained and seemingly endless trails. With the wide, flowing, and color-coded trails, skiers can find the right trails for their skill level. Throughout the season, Crosscut hosts events and races, so keep an eye on the calendar.

Lone Mountain Ranch, Big Sky
Level: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced
Cost: $25 adult day pass, free to overnight guests
The Trails: Whether you head down the canyon for just a day, or stay at the ranch for a luxurious mountain getaway, over 50 miles of trails await. If you’re up for it, tackle the big leg-burning climbs and fast downhills.

Rendezvous Ski Trails, West Yellowstone
Level: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced
Cost: $8 adult day pass, $45 season pass
The Trails: The Rendezvous trail system is worth the drive. On these peaceful wooded trails, it’s easy to spend a whole day exploring, and there are handy maps and well-marked signs to guide you.

Events
Tuesdays, December-February
Funski Nordic Series – Bozeman. Get together with friends and neighbors for a fun evening race or a mellow glide. These timed events always conclude with post-race refreshments, including local beer. Not a bad way to spend a Tuesday. bridgerskifoundation.org

February 16
Taste of the Trails – West Yellowstone. This fun event combines picturesque Nordic skiing and delicious food. Race the 5k, or take it slow, and stop at the four food stations along the way. skirunbikemt.com

March 7
Yellowstone Rendezvous Race – West Yellowstone. This is the big one. Head down the canyon to tackle this beautiful, winding 25k or 50k. With a nice steady climb on the way up, and fun, fast downhill to the finish, this race is a Montana classic. skirunbikemt.com

Skinny Skis

by Jenny White

Bozeman’s Nordic opportunities.

No one cares if you call it cross-country or Nordic skiing, but in these parts, once the snow flies, skinny skis become as commonplace as running shoes. Bozeman’s Nordic scene has a national reputation, and while you’ll likely see both former and aspiring Olympians and Paralympians on the trails, our tracks are filled with people of all ages and abilities. The motto here is to “keep the people skiing.”

In-town trails make it easy to sneak a ski into a busy day, even in the dark, and a short drive will bring you to dozens of mountainous experiences.

For newbies: rejoice that cross-country skiing has a relatively low cost to entry, made even better by free access on many of the local trails and the nonprofit status held by all of Bozeman’s ski organizations. Plus, it is a relatively easy learning curve, even if you’ve never been on skis. The best part: you can shuffle down the trail at an easy walking pace or you can speed it up for a full-body cardio workout.

Where to Go

The Bridger Ski Foundation (BSF) grooms more than 70 km of community Nordic trails in and around Bozeman that are free and open to the public (but the Bozeman way is to buy a voluntary trail pass from BSF in order to keep their donor-funded groomers running).

In town, BSF has a new snowmaking system on nearly 5 km at Sunset Hills, next to the hospital. Cross the road for nearly 10 km of rolling terrain at Highland Glen.

Beginners often seek out the flatter trails of the Bridger Creek Golf Course, Gallatin Regional Park, or a 1 km loop on the MSU campus.

Just outside of town, Sourdough Canyon is a mecca for skiers, dog walkers, and runners. While the lower miles are often a circus requiring excellent patience, those with endurance can find solitude and miles of groomed trail going all the way to Mystic Lake (20 miles round-trip) and the Moser pass. Hyalite boasts a massive network of both groomed and ungroomed trails, with the loops at the Blackmore trailhead being a favorite place to begin.

Up Bridger Canyon, a day (or season) pass grants you access to Crosscut Mountain Sports Center’s stunning 50 km of cross-country trails, including wide groomers and narrow-gauge trails. You can also explore dozens of ungroomed trails and Forest Service roads around Bozeman.

For those willing to drive longer, the options unfold. Go west on I-90 for trails at Homestake Lodge where you can find more than 35 groomed trails offering majestic views of the Tobacco Roots. Or, head south toward Big Sky for a day at Lone Mountain Ranch’s extensive network. Keep going to West Yellowstone to experience the Rendezvous Ski Trails, which attract skiers from across the country starting in November for early-season skiing. If you’re in the area, make sure to stop in at FreeHeel and Wheel, a top-notch ski shop that can service all of your Nordic needs and more.

If you’ve made it that far, we should mention that the Nordic skiing in Yellowstone National Park is spectacular. You can also enter the Park from the north via Gardiner and ski a groomed loop around the Mammoth Hot Springs terraces for some otherworldly scenery. Also in the area is the esteemed B Bar Ranch. Here, discover an intimate adventure—ski for the day and bed down for the night.

Come spring, there’s a little-known phenomenon called “crust cruising,” in which skate skiers set off across the cold-hardened, sun-crusted snowscape and cruise without a trail, often into remote areas. (The trick, of course, is to go early, so as not to get caught four miles from your car when the snow gets soft and you start to sink in.) Fawn Pass is a popular crust-cruising destination.

You’ll find many types of ski trails around here—some for skiers only, some that allow dogs, and some that allow multiple kinds of trail users. In Yellowstone Park, that may mean you’ll share the trail with a few post-holing bison. Know what kind of trail you’re on and the rules (and safety measures) for that location.

Learning

Good technique makes Nordic skiing infinitely easier and a whole lot more fun. You can find instruction (from a few hours to winter-long sessions) with several local groups: MSU Outdoor Recreation, Bridger Ski Foundation (BSF), Crosscut Mountain Sports Center, Montana Endurance Academy, Big Sky Ski Education Foundation, and Lone Mountain Ranch. If you want to combine shooting guns and skiing (a.k.a., biathlon), check out Crosscut’s biathlon programs.

Essential Gear

The most complicated thing about Nordic skiing is the equipment lingo. Sure, you only need boots, poles, and skis, but there are binding-compatibility issues, different ski types, and some confusing terms along the way. Lean on our local ski-shop staff to help you.

There are two types of Nordic skiing techniques; each involves a slightly different boot and ski. Most beginners start with classic skiing, which is a walking or running motion. Your skis either have scales or a grippy wax on the bottom giving you the ability to “kick” yourself forward. (This is your best option if you want to keep it mellow or explore ungroomed trails.) Some classic skis are designed mainly for groomed trails while other classic skis are wider, sometimes with metal edges, and best for ungroomed trails. Then there’s skate skiing, which uses the same motion as hockey skating. It’s faster, a bit addicting once you learn, and a great way to discover your max heart rate. You need groomed trails (or crust) to skate.

MSU Outdoor Recreation lends and rents skis to students. Arcs Ski and Bike is a great place to stop in town for gear and tunes. They specialize in high-end, race-ready equipment but can provide something for everyone looking to get out on the trail. The general public can rent or buy at Bangtail Ski & Bike, Chalet Sports, and Roundhouse Sports. Both Crosscut and Lone Mountain Ranch offer rentals at their ski centers. Used gear is also a great option. Shop the BSF Ski Swap on the first weekend of November for thousands of items, as well as Play It Again Sports and Second Wind.

For clothing, dress in layers. While the clothing you might wear on a winter run is mostly appropriate, temps drop quickly and windproof layers are your savior (especially on the downhills). If you’re headed out for a longer or more remote route, add proper safety equipment: food, water, warmer layers, a navigation device, and other backcountry essentials.

Etiquette
When using groomed trails, treat those corduroy surfaces as sacred snow that needs to be preserved: Keep footprints out of the trail (unless the trail allows foot traffic) and don’t track in mud. Around here, we use the Ski Kind principles (detailed below). It doesn’t matter who is speeding along, shuffling, or just learning to stay upright, sharing the trail is key.

Ski No Trace

Leave only tracks. Don’t leave poop (yours or your pup’s) or trash near the trail.

Ski Gracious
Share the trail with all speeds and abilities. Yield, slow down, and give a friendly hello to make everyone feel welcome.

Ski Aware
Know what type of trail you’re skiing and the rules for that location. Be aware of terrain, grooming equipment, and other trail users.

Ski Kind
Bring your best self to the trail and spread the joy of skiing. Share your knowledge and help others.

Ski Supportive
Give back to the trails you ski. Volunteer. Donate to local trail organizations, clubs, and groomers. The trails don’t groom themselves, someone has to do the work to make sure the roads are plowed and things are ready for the season. If you’re looking to give back, Friends of Hyalite is a great place to start.

Ski Safe
Technically, downhill skiers have the right of way, but they still need to think of other trail users as yield signs and slow down. Before you pass others, slow down and announce yourself. Give space. Use extra caution on blind corners and downhills.

Literature
The Last Best Ski MT offers a beautifully illustrated and informative look into the nearby skiing options. The book is only half the fun as videos and interviews can be found at the many QR codes throughout the book.

Events
You needn’t be an advanced skier or a speed demon to jump into the local scene around here. Here are a few of our favorite events.

Ongoing
Biathlon Races – Crosscut. Our backyard Nordic center hosts a series of fun community biathlon races throughout the winter. crosscutmt.org.

FUNSKI Community Series – Various locations. BSF hosts one race per month during the winter, usually on weeknights. Themes range from a Santa chase to a lively two-person relay. Costumes encouraged. bridgerskifoundation.org.

Clinics – Bozeman. BSF offers Nordic ski clinics throughout the winter, providing an easy way to drop in and learn a few ski tips. bridgerskifoundation.org.

January
Hyalite Tour – Hyalite. This isn’t a race, just a great day to go ski the trails in Hyalite with friends and finish with free food & hot cocoa. Pick your distance and trail. hyalite.org.

Snoflinga – Butte. This festive three-day event hosts free skiing and and snowshoe lessons along with a plethora of other activities. Sign up here.

Women’s Skate Clinic – Homestake Lodge. Incredible coaches and a fun atmosphere. Need we say more? homestakelodge.com/events.

February
Montana Cup Race, Homestake Hustle – Homestake Lodge. homestakelodge.com/events.

March
Yellowstone Rendezvous – West Yellowstone. A good portion of Bozeman heads to West Yellowstone each March for the final races of the season with a 2k, 5k, 10k, 25k, and 50k. skirunbikemt.com.

Winter Watch-Outs

By Jack Taylor

A little prep goes a long way.

Winter in Montana is magical. Our landscape takes on a beautiful frozen stillness that beckons us to venture out among frosty firs, blanketed meadows, and frozen waterfalls. Even as temperatures plunge below zero, we catch glimpses of wildlife adapted to survive in the snowglobe. But as humans, we’re not so adept at enduring the cold. We depend on warm clothing, heating, and shelter to make it through. The margin for error in the outdoors is thinner during winter, and a mishap can quickly turn dangerous if you’re not prepared.

Before you take on the snowy roads, make sure your vehicle is capable. Snow tires are highly recommended and will make your life easier—and safer—all winter long. Yes, it’s a big investment, but with two sets of tires for summer and winter, each will last twice as long. If you must go without, a set of chains in your car will get you out of a pickle. Make sure they fit your tires, and practice installing them so that you can do it quickly when the time comes. If you have a front- or four-wheel drive car, put them on the front tires; if rear-wheel, put them on the back. A few more items to keep in your car include a shovel for digging yourself out, jumper cables in case your battery dies, and gloves plus warm jackets (or even a sleeping bag) in case you get stuck for a long time.

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Extra warm layers are also essential when venturing away from your vehicle. A good rule of thumb is to bring one layer more than you think you’ll need—better safe than sorry. When planning your layering scheme, start with a moisture-wicking baselayer made of synthetic fibers or wool. Never wear cotton for warmth in winter; if it gets wet, it won’t dry out until you’re back in a warm environment. Fleece makes a great midlayer for top and bottom, and the same rule applies for materials. A waterproof shell usually isn’t necessary given the dryness of our winters, but a windbreaker will add protection without taking up much space in your pack. On top of that, an insulated jacket with synthetic or down fill gives you lots of warmth with little extra weight to carry. Down has a better warmth-to-weight ratio, but like cotton, it will not dry in the cold, so synthetic is always a safer bet.

Summer Lovin’

by Leah Veress

Getting up and at ‘em in warmer weather. 

When the weather warms and the Bozone defrosts, odds are you’re itching to pull out your hiking boots, climbing gear, mountain bike, or fishing rod—but why not broaden your horizons, beat the crowds, and dive into some new, less mainstream outdoor activities this summer? Here are a few ideas to get you started.


Hunting & Gathering

Kill two birds with one stone, avoid the masses, and get in touch with your long-repressed primal side by finding your own food. If you’re interested in cutting your teeth as a hunter, don’t just twiddle your thumbs ’til big-game season comes around. Instead, learn how to hunt, clean, and cook wild game by pursuing smaller critters like squirrels and rabbits—species whose seasons are year-round. Head onto some public land—off-trail to avoid startling hikers—with a .22 rifle or 20-gauge shotgun and get to it. Come fall, you’ll be ready for the bigger fellers.

If the idea of harvesting an animal makes you queasy, fret not. The mountains of southwest Montana host an abundance of huckleberries, strawberries, raspberries, and edible mushrooms. Grab a basket and head to the highlands. We can’t give away our spots, but with some research and time spent in the backcountry, you’re sure to discover your own crop. Once you have your foraging skills dialed, you can begin pursuing fungi. Spring is morel season, and late summer brings a bountiful chanterelle crop. But be sure to bring an ID book or a knowledgeable buddy along—both species have poisonous lookalikes.


Slacklining

First pioneered by Yosemite’s rock-climbing community, slacklining has snowballed in popularity among various alcoves of the outdoor community. The practice—walking across a length of one- or two-inch nylon webbing suspended between two anchor points—claims a host of benefits, like improving balance and inducing meditative states. All you need to get started are two trees and a line. Start above soft ground in your back yard or a local park. Once you’ve got the hang of things, you can move to highlining or water-lining.

Bird watching in the Gllatin Valley


Wildlife Watching

Snag your binos, ID books (or download an app like Merlin or Seek), a snack, a good hat, and get ready to glass some wildlife. You can head into Yellowstone Park—a quick hour-and-a-half drive from the Bozone—or into any of the surrounding mountain ranges. Just be sure to respect private-property boundaries and give wildlife adequate space, lest you become a battering ram or dinner. If birding is more your speed, you’re in luck. With the Indreland Audubon Wetland Preserve right on the edge of town, you won’t have to travel far to spot your favorite feathery friends.

While still water is often cast as the ugly cousin of whitewater in southwest Montana, it shouldn’t be overlooked. If you’re looking for a relaxing day, load up your canoe, kayak, or paddleboard and hit the lake. Some good options are Hebgen, Quake, or Ennis lakes. Bring a lunch and get off the water to beat the afternoon winds, or put in early and end your paddle before they pick up. You can also cast a line from your craft and score some dinner if that’s your thing.


Cliff & Bridge Jumping

For the adrenaline junkies among us—and Tom Petty—few things beat that weightless, heart-in-your-throat feeling of free-falling. With spots like Williams Bridge by Three Forks and the ragged cliffs above the Ennis Lake dam, it isn’t hard to come across opportunities to catch some air and leap into the water. Always test the water’s depth before jumping—either by visually inspecting the area for obstacles, swimming to the bottom with goggles, or dropping a weighted object like a rock or anchor.

There’s really no wrong way to enjoy a Montana summer so long as you’re outside. So grab a buddy, a mentor, or go at it alone and meet some new friends on the water, in the field, or on a mountain.

Water World

by Carson Sprague

Chasing Montana’s whitewater.

Bozeman—and Montana as a whole—isn’t exactly known for whitewater, especially when compared to other states in the American West. The rivers of Montana are generally renowned for their fishing and floating opportunities instead of the roaring, high-volume rapids or secluded, multi-day stretches of river found in states like Colorado, Utah, Idaho, and Oregon.

There’s still plenty of fun to be had under the Big Sky. All you’ve got to know is where to look.

All said, we’re not much of a destination for seasoned boaters and paddlers hungry for carnage—but that’s their loss. There’s still plenty of fun to be had under the Big Sky. All you’ve got to know is where to look.


Where to Go

Yellowstone River
The Yellowstone is the only major river in the contiguous United States that is undammed in its entirety. The ‘Stone is free to flow however she pleases, which means that high water season can get pretty damn rowdy, though mid- to late summer is less exciting.

For more excitement, put in at Yankee Jim and take on its three major rapids—Boat Eater, Big Rock, and Box Car—and take out at Carbella campground.

The Gardiner town section is a fun stretch for intermediate boaters and oarsmen alike. Put in at Confluence Park and get ready for some action—the first waves are just 50 yards from where you launch, but things slow down quickly once you’ve passed the airport. If you’re looking to get multiple laps in—or have other plans later that day—consider taking out at McConnell fishing access area. Alternatively, you can enjoy the carefree float down to Cinnabar or Yankee Jim.

For more excitement, put in at Yankee Jim and take on its three major rapids—Boat Eater, Big Rock, and Box Car—and take out at Carbella campground. At median water (6,000-12,000 cfs), this float can be a challenging and exciting ordeal. But watch out when flows get over 15,000 cfs, as all three rapids can easily flip your boat.

Gallatin River
The Gallatin—or more affectionately, the Gally—is one of the premiere sections of whitewater in the Gallatin Valley, and the most easily accessible for folks living in Bozeman. It’s a great stretch, and there are plenty of access sites to choose from depending on what you’re looking for and how long you’d like your float to be.

Depending on water levels, the rapids can be anywhere from class II to class IV, including the infamous House Rock rapid.

For non-stop action that you can lap all day long, put in at the Lava Lake trailhead and take on the infamous Mad Mile. It’s a fast-paced, boulder-ridden ride that’s sure to satisfy even the most adrenaline-driven boaters. Depending on water levels, the rapids can be anywhere from class II to class IV, including the infamous House Rock rapid. Take out on river left at Lower Storm Castle, shuttle the rigs, and enjoy the whole 4-run ordeal all over again. If you’re looking for a longer float, consider putting in at Moose Flat or Greek Creek.

Madison River
The Madison’s claim to fame has always been its world-class fly fishing (not to mention the oft-mentioned bikini hatch in mid-July). While the lower sections of river belong to the leisure floaters, tubers, and driftboaters, the upper section—Bear Trap Canyon—belongs to whitewater fanatics.

Bear Trap is as exciting as it is scenic. Here you’ll find two bona fide class IV’s: Double Drop and the Kitchen Sink.

Starting just below the Ennis Dam at the Trail Creek day-use area, Bear Trap is one of—if not the—most exciting sections of water in southwest Montana. Tucked away in the solitude of the Lee Metcalf Wilderness, Bear Trap is as exciting as it is scenic. Here you’ll find two bona fide class IV’s: Double Drop and the Kitchen Sink. The latter can really be a doozy, so be sure to scout or portage on river right if you’re feeling trepidatious or unfamiliar with swimming technical whitewater. Take out on river left at Black’s Ford, or continue downriver to enjoy the bikini float.

Essential Gear
If you’re looking to get on the river this summer, the first thing you’re going to need to find is a suitable personal floatation device (PFD). It’s undoubtedly the most important piece of gear in any boater’s arsenal, and one that you shouldn’t skimp on. Be sure to find something comfortable, as you’ll be wearing it every day you’re on the water. Next, it’s time to look for a dry bag. A standard 10- or 20-liter roll-top bag will work fine for most day trips, as they can hold all the essentials—phone, keys, extra layers, and a first-aid kit.Montana rivers are pretty cold for nine months of the year, so if you’re hoping to partake in some early- or late-season boating, I’d strongly recommend you invest in cold-water gear, like a wetsuit or drysuit. Wetsuits are significantly cheaper, and easier to care for. Conversely, drysuits are significantly warmer—you can layer-up to your heart’s content —underneath—but they’re pricey, harder to maintain, and like Gore-Tex waders, can become drowning hazards should they fill with water during an unexpected plunge.

Montana rivers are pretty cold for nine months of the year, so if you’re hoping to partake in some early- or late-season boating, I’d strongly recommend you invest in cold-water gear, like a wetsuit or drysuit.

Lastly, if you’re looking to buy a boat but don’t know what’d best suit your needs, check out “Face-Off: Kayaking vs. Rafting” .

Etiquette
Boating etiquette is pretty straightforward and can be boiled down to one simple principle: don’t be a jackass. No one person owns the river. Be efficient at the boat ramp, and be courteous to others who are waiting to launch. Don’t crowd other folks when you’re on the water—they’re probably not interested in listening to your tunes or getting into an unannounced splash fight. Similarly, give anglers a wide berth, and don’t blow through their fishing holes and spook all the trout—unless you’re seeking a fistfight at the takeout.

Don’t crowd other folks when you’re on the water—they’re probably not interested in listening to your tunes or getting into an unannounced splash fight.

If it seems as though several boats are moving downriver as a group, let them be and don’t cut into their pod. If you’re a kayaker surfing a wave and see a boat approaching you, eddy out so they can maneuver through without worrying about running you over or comprising their line. Finally, don’t be a drunk. Nobody wants to deal with your shenanigans, and they didn’t sign up to be your personal rescue party if something goes awry.

The High Life

by Fischer Genau

Learning the ropes.

Climbers are able to scale some of the most treacherous terrain on Earth with only a rope, harness, partner, and a few hunks of metal. The Bozeman area sports a wide variety of such terrain, and there are ample opportunities for climbers to test their mettle. From burly boulders to bulletproof limestone cliffs, Bozemanites can find somewhere to go damn near year-round, despite the long winters. So, if you’re looking for your next big challenge, or you’re a newbie just getting her bearings, here’s a guide to get you started.

From burly boulders to bulletproof limestone cliffs, Bozemanites can find somewhere to go damn near year-round, despite the long winters

Essential Gear
Start with the basics. A pair of climbing shoes and a chalk bag will allow you to start bouldering and building your strength, turning the delicate skin on your fingers into callouses. The next step is a harness and helmet. Once you’ve got those, you can bum your brains out, tagging along with more experienced climbers who’ve got all the other goodies. It gets more expensive from there, but with each new purchase you’ll become less reliant on others (freedom ain’t cheap). Sport climbers will want to invest in a set of quickdraws, a rope (preferably 9.5-10mm for durability), a belay device, and some anchor-building items like cordalette, locking carabiners, and slings. Boulderers who want to take the next step just need a crash pad or two before they can strike out on their own, although it’s always best to bring a spotter. A traditional climbing rack is the epitome of autonomy, but buying one can really break the bank—a full rack of cams and stoppers will run you a cool grand. It helps to buy one piece at a time and collect your treasure chest over several months or even years.

A traditional climbing rack is the epitome of autonomy, but buying one can really break the bank—a full rack of cams and stoppers will run you a cool grand.

Uphill Pursuits and Spire Climbing Center both stock just about everything a climber could need, and Spire even sells consignment shoes and cheap chalk bags out of their lost & found. Second Wind Sports also often stocks used climbing shoes. Facebook Marketplace can be a good place to find certain pieces of discounted gear, but buyers beware: never buy a used rope, harness, cordalette, or quickdraws from a stranger, although carabiners, cams, stoppers, and climbing shoes are usually okay.

Where to Go

BEGINNER
You just bought a chalk bag and climbing shoes at the pawn shop. Your friend who convinced you to do so has inspected your wares—the shoes smell vaguely of mold, but look sturdy enough—and you’re ready to go. But where to begin?

Bear Canyon is only 30 minutes from town (20 in the car, 10 on the approach), and it contains over 40 bolted routes between 5.6 and 5.10. Plus, if you hit it in April immediately after the rock dries out, you can link it with a Bear Canyon ski lap for an easy multisport day.

For more variety, consider Allenspur, a 45-minute drive from town at the mouth of Paradise Valley. Allenspur has 80-some sport routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12, and the views of the valley and the Yellowstone River are hard to beat.

Scorched Earth

INTERMEDIATE
You have your own rope, a set of 14 shiny quickdraws, and you just bought a Black Diamond Camalot C4, although you’re not entirely sure how to use it. Last weekend, you finally climbed Ignition (and took two whippers in the process), and you’re hungry for more… where to next?

On the south side of town, Practice Rock is a good place for anyone who wants to practice their trad climbing on a variety of mellow routes up this small gneiss crag just a few minutes up Hyalite Canyon. Climbers can also walk up Practice Rock’s backside to set a toprope on most routes, and it offers a smattering of sport climbs as well. 26 climbs in total from 5.6 to 5.12, including the classic touchpiece: Cardiac Arête, 5.12c.

If you head east from Bozeman on I-90 for 10 miles, you’ll reach Bozeman Pass, a collection of limestone crags containing over 50 routes, all sport, with a variety of 5.11 and 5.12 climbs to choose from. Don’t miss Black Russian, 5.11d, which boasts a combination of pockets, spiny dishes, and crimps on bulletproof rock.

Scorched Earth is another option, and although it only has about 15 routes, most of them are clean, intermediate sport climbs around 5.11. A half-hour south of Bozeman on Highway 191, the crag gets its name from the ample sunshine that blasts its south-facing walls, making it an excellent place to climb in the winter.


ADVANCED
You’re well on your way to becoming a trad king—at least that’s what you tell yourself in the mirror every night while flexing your wiry muscles—and you’ll clip into almost anything if it’s bolted. You keep a note of all the routes you want to climb before the snow comes, and you’re ready to start ticking them off the list… but you’re new to Bozeman and aren’t sure where to get the goods.

If you only climb in one area in Bozeman, it’s gotta be Gallatin Canyon. With over 400 separate climbs and counting, and a good mix of trad, sport, boulders, and even alpine routes, you could spend years there and still find surprises. Try Bowling for Buicks, a 5.12a sport route, or the iconic Sparerib, 5.8, a two-pitch trad climb that concludes with a set of double cracks running all the way to the top.

Outside the obvious, there are plenty of gems, some more hidden than others. Wolverine Bowl on the backside of the Bridger Mountains is more secluded than other crags around Bozeman—partly due to the 30-minute drive and hour-long approach—but it features some of the best limestone sport climbing in the area. If you go even further out of town, you can explore the Pipestone area’s practically limitless boulders, most of them undeveloped, or Natural Bridge’s profusion of steep, limestone sport routes, where new climbs go up every year.

Etiquette
It’s always important to be conscious of your impact on other people and the landscape, and climbing is no exception. Basically, just be respectful and remember that the world doesn’t revolve around you. If that sounds too complicated, here are some helpful pointers.

Don’t crowd on the crag. If someone else is on a route, pick a different one and patiently wait your turn instead of breathing down their necks—even if you’ve been waiting all week for a crack at it. Also, don’t hog a route once you’re on one. If it’s a popular climb in the area, chances are you’re not the only one who wants to have a go.

Don’t be a distraction. That means leave your dog at home if she’s going to bother other climbers (or other climbers’ dogs) and keep volume at a reasonable level by not spraying beta or playing loud music, unless you’re 100% certain that everyone else will enjoy listening to a 17-minute Grateful Dead song as much as you do.

Clean up after yourself. Pack out all your gear, check for trash when you leave, and, for the love of all things holy, dispose of excrement—yours or your dog’s—properly by digging a hole or packing it out

Tie One On

by Eli Fournier

Back to the basics.

No matter your occupation or preferred activities, there are a handful of knots that every Montana outdoorsperson should know—knots that are useful in all kinds of situations, whether paddling the rivers, camping in the mountains, or moving your mattress to the fifth rental house in two years. Learn the following four knots, and you’ll be all set.

Bowline knot

Bowline
The bowline might be the most versatile knot ever invented. It’s used to tie a loop on the free end of a rope. However, that loop can be strung around something while crafting the knot—say, a tree branch to tie off a boat, a food bag to construct a bear-hang, or a car frame to attach a tow rope. Thanks to the mechanics of the knot, the rope will break before it ever pulls lose. Yet to undo it, just “pop” the shoulder of the knot and pull it apart with ease.

Double figure-eight knot

Double Figure-Eight
The double figure-eight is a climber’s bread and butter. It’s used to connect the harness to the rope—a pretty dang important connection point. Fortunately, it’s simple to tie. Once you’ve made the initial loop and strung the rope through the harness, just be sure to retrace it exactly the same way. Have a friend check your work. Like the bowline, the double figure-eight can be used to create a temporary loop at the end of any rope or cord—but it’s more streamlined, so lends itself to attaching a carabiner, among a myriad of other applications.

Trucker’s hitch knot

Trucker’s Hitch
Even if you don’t have a truck, you’re gonna use the trucker’s hitch at some point to lash something to your vehicle—after all, you’re in Montana now. This dead-easy knot makes an adjustable loop (called a “hitch” in knot lingo), so it can be cinched down tight to secure a load. It’s commonly used to lash a canoe to the top of a car or tighten up the guy-out ropes of a tent.

Blood knot

Blood Knot
Aside from the clinch knot, the blood knot is the most common fly-fishing knot. It’s used to connect two pieces of tippet, or tippet and leader. But you ask: Doesn’t the double surgeon’s do that? Yes, but that knot is best when joining lines of similar diameter. A blood knot can easily connect lines of different sizes, making it far more versatile (not to mention stronger). It’s a streamlined, elegant knot that takes some practice to master, but you’ll never tie another surgeon’s again.

Balanced Learning

by Thomas Austin

Finding the sweet spot between pain and gain.

Before I moved to Bozeman, I thought I had a solid foundation in most of the area’s popular outdoor sports. In high school I skied a handful of days each season, mountain biked occasionally, had a few trail runs under my belt, and backpacked at least once a year. But once I moved and started making more outdoorsy friends, I realized I was still a novice at all these activities. Sure, I could hold my own on a trout stream, but rock walls, dirt trails, and ski slopes were another story.

Keeping up with the cadre of crushers I kept as friends required quick learning. No matter the activity—mountain biking, whitewater paddling, or backcountry skiing—I relied on the same simple process. I’d spend as much time as possible practicing, and I jumped at every opportunity to leave my comfort zone. In time, I discovered that a balance between the two—getting reps at the upper threshold of one’s ability and also participating in nerve-shattering group outings—was the best method for dramatically improving performance.

The most effective way to develop any skill is to learn from those more skilled than oneself, and the best mentors are folks who’ve put in countless hours mastering their craft and have developed a vast repertoire of knowledge they’re willing to share.

Stepping out of our comfort zone forces us to expand the scope of terrain that we’re comfortable in and push the boundaries of our ability.

If you’re looking to get into an activity, find a knowledgeable friend and ask to tag along on an outings. Study what she does, how she does it, and try to replicate it. Ask every question that comes to mind, and don’t settle for answers you don’t understand. Take this time to identify what you need help with the most.

Input from a knowledgeable peer can make the difference between fruitless struggle and rapid improvement. We’re all capable of more than we think, and sometimes we just need a hard-charging friend to push us further than we thought possible. Stepping out of our comfort zone forces us to expand the scope of terrain that we’re comfortable in and push the boundaries of our ability.

That said, it’s frustrating as hell to always being the weak link. Spending all your time trying to keep up isn’t fun, and practicing solo—without the fear of slowing down the group or looking like a noob—provides the opportunity to relax and go at your own pace. Recreating on manageable terrain allows you to hone your technique and try new things. You’ll struggle at first, but if you stick with it, you’ll soon familiarize yourself with your strengths and weaknesses, develop your own style, and gain confidence in your approach. Breakthroughs in performance are the result of countless hours of practice.

As a beginner, it’s tempting to be overly critical, but negativity can create frustration. Being great right away isn’t normal, and progress wouldn’t be rewarding if it were. Good things take time.

Remember to acknowledge the limitations of your abilities even as your skills sharpen. Understanding your comfort zone is critical. Even if your ultimate goal is rapid improvement, carve out some time to take it slow. Eventually you’ll find the balance that works for you. For me, an even split between pushing myself and taking it easy yields the best results.

Lastly, make sure to keep your inner dialogue positive. As a beginner, it’s tempting to be overly critical, but negativity can create frustration. Being great right away isn’t normal, and progress wouldn’t be rewarding if it were. Good things take time. Embrace your mistakes, pick yourself up when you fall, remind yourself why you started in the first place, and remember that improvement requires pushing the envelope.

Finally, take comfort in knowing that learning never ends. There’s always room for improvement, and that’s the best part. The reward lies in the pursuit of perfection, not the realization of it. If you buy in and embrace the grind, your efforts will be rewarded. Take your time and strive for greatness. Who knows, maybe one day you’ll be the one mentoring the next generation of mountain phenoms.

Jackass Citation

by the editors

Calling ‘em like you seem ‘em.

Montana has a special charm, and not just because it’s one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Generally speaking, Montanans are kind and considerate—something that’s increasingly rare in today’s social climate. Folks around here look out for their neighbors and tend to possess the self-awareness necessary to not overstep or infringe on each other’s ability to reasonably enjoy themselves. But every so often, someone comes along who doesn’t seem to understand, or just doesn’t care to follow, our particular social norms—those time-honored traditions that have safeguarded a careful balance of shared use and impact on those around us.

We’re not talking about people showing up at your favorite fishing hole (unless they high-holed you, of course). Nope, we’re talking about those inconsiderate a-holes who blast music or leave dog-poop baggies on the trail, take up multiple parking spots at busy trailheads, and dust you out on dirt roads, among other signs of staggering self-absorption. Actions like these demonstrate a level of rudeness and blatant disregard for others’ experiences in shared spaces that we just can’t abide.

 

But every so often, someone comes along who doesn’t seem to understand, or just doesn’t care to follow, our particular social norms—those time-honored traditions that have safeguarded a careful balance of shared use and impact on those around us.

In search of the right response for these infuriating instances—something between a passive-aggressive stare and slashing their tires—we came up with the Jackass Citation: a customizable, catch-all admonishment for all the arrogant imbeciles you may be unlucky enough to run into. Other transgressions include, but are not limited to: littering; not quenching campfires; being boisterous in tranquil backcountry spots; not digging a cathole and/or leaving toilet paper in the woods; not honoring hoot-owl restrictions, and letting their untrained, overpriced mutts steal your food or jump on you.

While some of these violations may warrant more “legitimate” ramifications, an impromptu citation will at least (hopefully) make ’em realize their wrongdoings and possibly prevent future infractions. If nothing else, it’s just plain old cathartic to call out their BS.

If nothing else, it’s just plain old cathartic to call out their BS.

Feel free to leave the citation on a windshield—or better yet, just walk up and hand it to the perpetrator. Just remember that the rebuke should fit the crime. Use discretion, circle the appropriate epithet and punishment—and don’t overdo it, lest you become the jackass.

Good citing, good citizens of the Bozone!


For additional copies, email [email protected], stop by the O/B office on Mendenhall, or pick up another Blue Light.

Outdoor Après

by Tim Cawdrey

Finding the best local booze and bites.

There are a couple of sayings I hear often about Montana neighbors: “They’ll give you space, but not distance.” or, “You may not see them for weeks, but they’re there when you need them.” This rings true not only for the folks next door, but for our neighboring towns and the bars, distilleries, and breweries they contain. No matter where you end up after an exhausting day, there’ll always be a barstool and a bartender waiting for you. Here are a few personal favorites from some recreational hotspots across southwest Montana. Just be sure to drink plenty of beer and leave a good tip.

No matter where you end up after an exhausting day, there’ll always be a barstool and a bartender waiting for you.

Cordoned-off access wise by the Gallatin Range is the fishing mecca of Montana: Ennis. Once you’ve floated, fished, biked, or toured to your heart’s content, go quench your thirst with a pint from Burnt Tree Brewing. Lookin’ for something harder? Check out The Gravel Bar or Willie’s Distillery. If you get too tuned-up to drive, don’t sweat. Just call Tony and book a room at the Lure Me Inn right down the road. For a one-stop shop, check out the Sportsman’s Lodge—where cold beer, tasty food, and warm beds await.

On the other side of the mountains is Gallatin Canyon—a renowned playground for rock climbers, elk hunters, and river rats alike. If New York style pizza, sub sandwiches, and a full bar on your way home then don’t miss The Buck in Four Corners. If you’re on the southern end of the canyon, head over to Riverhouse BBQ—their seven-dollar chicken meal can’t be beat.

Even if you can’t catch a fish in Park County, rest assured knowing you can always catch a buzz. If you just got back from backpacking the Absarokas or floating the ‘Stone, there’s no better place to refuel than Follow Yer Nose BBQ. Alternatively, you can saddle up to the bar at The Attic or rest your tired bones in a booth at The Owl.

There are plenty of fine establishments back home in Bozeman for the thirsty recreator, and you don’t have to look far to find ‘em, either. For some cheap, laid-back drinks, check out the College Street Taproom, or head two doors down for pizza & pitchers at Columbo’s. If hops aren’t your thing, then don’t miss out on the fine offerings at Lockhorn Cider or Valhalla Meadery. For a smooth-sippin’ cocktail to remember, hit up one of town’s two distilleries, Bozeman Spirits or or Wildrye.

Quite a selection, eh? Make it a quest to visit them all, the same way you tick off the area’s outdoor offerings. Just remember, when you do belly up, drink lots and tip well.

Blast from the Past

by Jamie Rankin

Revisiting living history.

Out here in southwest Montana, history isn’t just something we read about—it’s something we live amongst. Whether you’re casting a line in the Missouri or trail running in the Expedition 12k, there’s always a story to be told. All it takes to find out is slow down, look around, and listen up.

Missouri Headwaters State Park
30 minutes northwest of Bozeman sits the town of Three Forks—the site where the Gallatin, Madison, and Jefferson rivers braid together to form the Missouri. In July of 1805, the Lewis & Clark Expedition stood at this intersection, uncertain of which fork would take them toward the Columbia. They ultimately opted for the Jefferson, and Lewis & Clark named each river after a political figure: President Thomas Jefferson; Secretary of State James Madison; and the Secretary of the Treasury, Albert Gallatin. Centuries before the Corps of Discovery’s Expedition, Indigenous peoples, including Shoshone and Flathead bands, traditionally used the river corridors, hunting grounds, and gathering areas in and around this landmark.

Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park
Just west of Three Forks, the mountains open—not skyward, but underground—into the limestone labyrinth of Lewis & Clark Caverns. However, neither of the explorers for which the cave system is named ever saw the caverns. Rather, they were discovered in the 1890s by deer hunters who spotted steam rising from a mountainside vent. The discovery of caves captivated the attention of curious locals. The Civilian Conservation Corps took up residence at Camp Cavern in the 1930s, transforming the wild underground into a walkable wonderland. They blasted the tunnel, wired in lights, and constructed a 3.2-mile access road that winds like a ribbon to the cave’s mouth. You can still trace the CCC’s handiwork in every stone wall, carved stair, and lantern-lit chamber. When the caverns—Montana’s first state park—officially opened in 1941, thousands showed up to celebrate the event.

The Civilian Conservation Corps took up residence at Camp Cavern in the 1930s, transforming the wild underground into a walkable wonderland.

Beaverhead Rock State Park
Visible from Highway 41 near Dillon, Beaverhead Rock rises strikingly from the valley floor. It is a striking limestone monolith shaped by nature. While it may appear to be just another rocky outcrop to the untrained eye, Beaverhead Rock was particularly significant to native peoples—especially Sacagawea. Having been kidnapped as a young girl by the Hidatsa, Sacagawea many years far from her home, her family, and her tribe, the Shoshone. When she spotted the formation (which is shaped like a beaver’s head) while accompanying the Corps of Discovery, she knew that she had finally come home.

While it may appear to be just another rocky outcrop to the untrained eye, Beaverhead Rock was particularly significant to native peoples—especially Sacagawea.

Madison Buffalo Jump State Park

For nearly 2,000 years, tribes including the Shoshone, Crow, Blackfeet, and Nez Perce choreographed epic hunts at the Madison Buffalo Jump, driving herds of bison off the cliffs in a ritual of survival and ingenuity. Young men—called “runners”—donned wolf, buffalo, or antelope skins and sprinted ahead of the stampede, guiding the animals over the edge. At the cliff’s base, bison bones and tipi ring impressions—marking where families once gathered to process meat, prepare hides, and live amongst the land—lie buried under years of dirt and sediment. Today, the site is a quiet, day-use park. A short interpretive trail leads you up to the rim of the bluff, offering sweeping views and informational displays.

Young men—called “runners”—donned wolf, buffalo, or antelope skins and sprinted ahead of the stampede, guiding the animals over the edge.

Alder Gulch & Virginia City
Virginia City—one of Montana’s first boomtowns—was founded in 1863, following the discovery of gold in Alder Gulch. The town quickly blossomed into a bustling mining hub, attracting thousands seeking fortune. At its peak, Virginia City boasted a population of 5,000, becoming the one of the Montana territory’s first social centers and transportation hubs. In 1865, Virginia City was named the territorial capitol of Montana. The town’s prosperity was fueled by the extraction of gold, with an estimated $30 million—roughly $595 million today—worth mined in the first three seasons alone. However, hydraulic mining and the following dredging operations in the early 20th century led to the destruction of several communities, including Nevada City, which was entirely eradicated by dredging.